Category Archives: Natural dyeing

Bundle over-dyeing

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I began with this… a much worn and washed and somewhat faded and darned merino singlet.  There was also a silky merino infinity scarf, but the ‘before’ picture was not too exciting.

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And there were these… four bundles friends had wrapped up and prepared for the dye pot.  So much creativity…

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Needless to say, heat and eucalyptus worked their magic.

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By next day, I had these bundles to pass on to my friends at the local farmers’ market (where one was unwrapped on the spot)!

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My two were unwrapped on my happy return from Back Country, which seemed entirely appropriate to me.

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Here they are, wet and glorious, freshly unbundled.

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The silky merino was more red/yellow and orange–and the overdye full of greys and blacks and reds.

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Finding daylight and sunshine to photograph in has been challenging, but… I am wearing the scarf today at work and feel very snug and cheery about it.

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And the singlet looks even darker and richer than this photo, and the darning has receded into  the background quite suitably!

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Filed under Eucalypts, Leaf prints, Natural dyeing, Neighbourhood pleasures

Weeds, seeds and dyestuffs around the neighbourhood

When roaming my neighbourhood in the suburbs, I am sometimes just wandering and only incidentally finding dyestuffs I might want to collect and take home.  Sometimes, though, I go out with a concrete plan.  I was out and about one weekend in April looking to collect saltbush seed for propagation and dyestuffs for stuffing, steeping and storing. I had success in a couple of places with hibiscus flowers that had bloomed and shrivelled away, so I deadheaded a few neighbourhood hibiscus.  They went into a jar for dyeing purposes… and folk on Ravelry inform me that these are tropical hibiscus and not hardy hibiscus, from a North American point of view (good to know, as I have North American dye books and ‘hardy hibiscus’ is not a category I have heard here).

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I also managed to collect saltbush seed, but by then it was too dark to take a picture.  Mostly because I was waylaid by caltrop.

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I find this weed especially loathsome because it has vicious, large thorns which help spread its seeds around, and they are cunningly organised so that they break apart and lie on the ground with the spine of the thorn pointing toward the sky,  Which is to say, just about every thorn on a caltrop plant will come to maturity pointing toward any passing foot or bicycle tyre.  I have spent a lot of persistent effort eradicating it from a local park which sees a lot of barefoot children and passing bike traffic.  This was the first time I had seen it in this particular location, so I pulled out every single plant I could find and carried them away to the nearest bin I could find.  Three cheers for bin night.

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On the up side… the caltrop was growing beside some miniature statice in a spot so unpromising that only tough customers like these two plants could make it there.  So… I gathered seed from the statice which I’ll try to propagate in due course too!

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I’ve had my eyes open and it looks to me like it is time to plant these seeds–little plants are emerging in this unpromising spot.  The seasons are turning toward spring.

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Filed under Natural dyeing, Neighbourhood pleasures

Slippers–and camellias–again!

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Every time I think I can’t make another pair of Bev Galeskas’ Felted Clogs… I turn out to be wrong.  I made two purple pairs and a blue pair… one purple pair were felted as dinner entertainment in order to be a good fit for the recipient.  One blue pair await felting.  And this pair await a recipient.  I think the kicker is the number of people who speak to me about slipper love when it’s cold!  And perhaps, how quickly I can whip out a pair of these nowadays.  Long gone are the days when row 2 took me twenty minutes and I had to lie on the couch for the rest of the evening afterward.  Have I said before that I hope Bev Galeskas is a rich woman?  When I went to the web to get that link to the pattern, Ravelry said ‘Would you like to see 10525 projects made from this pattern and much more?’  I hope Bev did a great deal on royalties and that she isn’t facing the difficulty of some of those songwriters whose work only made other folk rich!

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And, not to be deterred by the comedy of errors of my recent camellia experiment, I decided I may as well pick up the remaining fallen camellias and preservation dye with them (the first such jar is looking good).  Some days, my goals have to be small!

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Filed under Knitting, Natural dyeing

India Flint: ‘Back Country’ Barossa Regional Gallery

The South Australian Living Artists’ Festival has begun, and yesterday I went out to Tanunda to the Barossa Regional Gallery to see India Flint’s latest local exhibition, Back Country. Needless to say, I can’t show pictures of the exhibition itself, but India has posted some here and (later) here.  Her pages also include the poem the exhibition is named after, which speaks to my concerns about this continent of ours and of the planet.

Back Country contains works using a wide variety of skills, techniques and materials.  As you enter, you can see the eponymous poem painted onto the wall–in mud, perhaps, which is drying in a bowl beneath.  There are sculptures of found objects.  In the foyer, what looked to me like well worn and weathered metal parts of some kind of machine were arranged in a rather glorious horizontal triptych.  I wished I had my father with me—he would have known what those parts were or been prepared to voice his best guess equally confidently!  He is such a lover of all things metal, he would have been very entertained by some of the pieces on display, I think.  There was part of an old innerspring mattress–just some of the metal springs and their framing, mounted on the wall and titled ‘Sweet Dreams’–that made me grin.  So did the equally ironic rusted steel ‘snake’ and ‘string of pearls’.

There were many works on paper, some using eco printing (so far as I could tell); with or without stitched on textile fragments, others using plant dyes and other painting media, some bearing marks from metals.  Some were stitched, others treated with resin and made substantial and glossy.  Many contained repeating motifs–I wandered up and down one series painted and printed onto the pages of a book that might have been a dictionary entertained by the words peeking out from the paint and markings.  I love the way that each individual part of such a work has a life of its own that is in some way made different, more significant and more substantial through its relationship to other parts that are like it and yet unlike it.  A bit like human beings, really.

Rather wonderfully, there was one installation of bones suspended from the ceiling which had been partially coloured and (to judge from the list of works) treated with beeswax in a way that made them gleam in the gallery lighting.  It had been installed near an airconditioning duct outlet so that the bones were turning lazily in the afternoon sunlight.  I probably would have liked this installation if it hadn’t been moving, but the slowly twirling bones were particularly splendid.

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Turning to textiles… one of my favourite pieces was ‘groundsheet’, which the list of works describes as ‘vintage silk, pre-used cot sheet, plant dyes, stitch’.  The sheen of the silk formed the face of the work turned toward the viewer, while  another fabirc, which I assume was the cot sheet–perhaps flanellette–formed a light absorbing matte edge on two sides and seemed the have been stitched on as a backing.  I am always itching to touch and explore details, but respect decrees that I keep my itchy fingers in my pockets.  The leaf prints and resists on this quite large work were detailed, many rounded, and in a dark palette of greys, browns and blacks.  A similar palette and use of silk were evident in a series of smaller textile works using eco-printing called ‘ dust and sunlight’.  The effect of greys and blacks and the sheen of silk evokes silver in places in a way that gives a lovely gleaming, luminous quality to the paler parts of the work.

The work that seemed to me to have been set up as the feature of the exhibition can be seen at the link I’ve provided (with some of the works on paper on the walls in the background).  It is a floor length silk and wool dress suspended above a dark woollen blanket which has darker eucalypt prints on it (and a contrasting–cotton, I assume–darn in it).  The absent woman in the dress is surrounded by a suitcase and rusted enamelware, a common feature of Australian home life in the past that has largely gone out of fashion. To my mind, it gives an impression she is preparing to leave home. I don’t assume that is the artist’s intention–I have played in bands and had people explain to the songwriter what her songs are about–not!–while she politely listens with muted surprise…

I loved the dress.  It is sleeveless, the neckline and armscyes bound and stitched.  A small number of pleats below the neckline begin a cascade of complex folds and drapes.  I lack the language to describe the way this effect has been created.  Insets and piecing have been used in the lower parts of the gown to create volume which is gathered up and stitched in place to allow it to fall again in a different form of cascade.  The back of the dress features a shaping sash tie.  The upper part of the dress–which is not a separately stitched bodice, though at the back it is framed by the neckline and sash–features striking rust-brown and orange abstract contact prints.  There are small prints of gumnuts or buds and the odd leaf scattering down the fall of the fabric.  Yet there is quite a bit of paler colour–silver-grey and almost white, especially toward the hem (more evident in person than in the photo India has posted).  The contrasts are rather lovely.

So there you have it.  If you’re keen to see more images of India’s works on paper–you might like to look at fieldnotes on blurb: the preview will suggest what these works might be like–and of course, may tempt you to seeing more…

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The gallery itself is not exciting from the outside, though the inside was full of light, white walls and a lovely wooden floor.  It’s one of the myriad soldiers’ memorial halls built to commemorate Australian soldiers who lost their lives in the world wars.  They tell a story of many lives lost and so gravely missed from so many small rural communities.  This one has suffered a coating of grey spackle over its original frame, as the picture shows.  Since the new expressway from Adelaide to its north has numerous overpasses each named after a battle (some in Vietnam, some in Europe)… the futility of war and the realities of present wars were on my mind as I headed for Tanunda.

Inside the hall, the fallen were remembered with an intricately carved wooden memorial and pictures.  And right at back of the hall is a truly extraordinary pipe organ, which evidently used to live in the Adelaide Town Hall (a much bigger building, since Adelaide is the capital of this state).  It seems that it has only recently been restored and is soon to be celebrated with a concert.  It is certainly glorious in its restored state–gleaming, beautifully decorated and positively towering over an exhibition space. That room also contains a tapestry of the Barossa region called ‘Woven Recital’ worked by Katharina Urban (a member of my Guild) and the Barossa Weavers.  It includes images recognising the Indigenous peoples of the region, famous colonial women and men, and the wine tradition of the area as well as some of its current recreational activities—cycling and hot air ballooning.  There is also  a quilt depicting the Barossa Valley and celebrating its history of German migration , wine making , coopering and associated skills, religion, farming and famous buildings.  So, local folk–you have all of August to go and visit.  The Gallery is on Basedow Rd just off the main street, where I had never previously found it when wandering Murray St, Tanunda.

 

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Filed under Leaf prints, Natural dyeing

How not to sew knits

Last winter, I believe… I bundled up this milky merino and dyed it.  Actually, I cut and dyed two different garments, and when I stitched the first one, I found the fabric had shrunk in one direction.  I think this was the appalling realisation that led me to put this garment aside for at least a year.

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One weekend a while back, I had a new sense of the possible.  If it has shrunk, waiting won’t make it grow back and I’ll just have to figure out what to do then, I thought.  I measured it against the pattern pieces.  I has indeed shrunk–but I pressed on.  I sat down to sew and that’s when I realised there was another profound sense of foreboding involved in my reluctance to start stitching this together.  Step 2 of Very Easy Vogue 9904 involves setting in an invisible zipper.  Suggesting Vogue’s idea of ‘very easy’ may have as much in common with mine as ‘the Vogue body’ has with my body shape!  I have applied a lot of zippers, albeit intermittently, but not into a knit fabric.  And not with any real pretence to invisibility.  I won’t catalogue all the things that went wrong.  I’ll just sum up by saying that sometimes a sense of foreboding is your subconscious letting you know–ahem, you don’t have the skills for this to go well!

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I set the zipper in by machine the first time and it was truly appalling.  In the end, I did it again by hand.  Decent!  I won’t bore you with all the missteps–in the end I hand stitched the hems as well, and I like them too.  Perhaps I should have dyed the thread, but I quite like the luminous stitches. I used dyed thread for the zipper after all the chat in the comments and so much practice sewing with embroidery thread.

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Speaking of which, right now… no wool garment story could be complete without darning.  Sigh!  I spoke to another friend who has been doing unprecedented levels of darning at her place this morning at Guild.

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In fact–I needed about six darns on this garment. Without washing or wear.

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Never before have I needed to darn prior to completing a garment!  But… I like the garment.  I would prefer it hadn’t required darning!  I’d make this pattern again, and the fit might be smaller than I intended and snugglier than I prefer… but it’s decent.  Even if it ends up being an underlayer, that’s better than staying on the chair where the moths found, it, not being finished!

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Filed under Leaf prints, Natural dyeing, Sewing

Festival of mending, continued…

I have had plenty of occasions to get out my darning kit this week. Wendi of the Treasure’s comment on the post about moths and mending recently helped me decide to get organised for colour darning. I began by winding some of my silk embroidery threads onto reels.  Oranges from madder, tans from eucalypt and onion skins, purple from logwood, and fuchsia pink from cochineal.  I have other colours but ran out of reels!

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So… now that woollen items are being subjected to rigorous scrutiny before return to the cupboards… I give you indigo darning.

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Onion skin darning.

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And logwood darning. This may well be the place I failed to eradicate a couple of moths last year, as this top already has a series of darns dyed with Plum Pine.  As a washfastness test, those darns have continued to show that I have not found a way to make Plum Pine washfast–it is fading, but that has worked well with the mauve of the top.

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While I was on a roll, I appliqued a patch over this hole where two pieces of recycled fabric in the lining of a bag parted company.

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I don’t rate my applique but I have been practising!

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Then there was the worn through section of my quilt (made of recycled linen garments)…

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Now repaired with a piece of linen collar from a test-dye.

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Well.  My mending queue is getting plenty of attention, but it remains to be seen whether it will just continue to grow as washing exposes where the maws of those moth larvae have been…

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Filed under Natural dyeing, Sewing

Peach leaf dye

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It seems a long time since I was admiring the rather lovely green another dyer on Ravelry had achieved using peach leaves.  She sounded a little apologetic when she explained that the leaves she used had fallen–but I was delighted, since that meant we were both Australians, experiencing autumn at the same time–and my peach tree was also dropping its leaves too.  We moved here less than three years ago and planted about 8 fruit trees in the first autumn, so our trees are, as yet, on the small side and my leaf harvest was similarly small.  Then I became distracted.  It is now midwinter and those leaves have been hanging off a chair in the dyeing area in a calico bag since then.  They are now quite dry.

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Recently, I spent time bagging dried leaves, sweeping and cleaning up–and it seemed like the right time.  Into the pot they went with some of the lovely rain that has fallen lately.  It is always wonderful to be blessed with rain here.  The leaves gave a rather soft and beautiful yellow, which you can just about see through the steam in this picture.

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Now for the next step.  I added about 50 ml of copper water.  This jar sits in the garden along with my rusty iron water jar and a few other chemistry experiments.

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There was nothing of the dramatic change in colour I observed with the Choisya Ternata bath, which made me wonder if I added more copper water to that bath and had simply forgotten quantity.  I returned the heat to the dye pot and added another sample card.

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I tried longer heating and more copper water–and the dye itself turned greenish–but the wool hardly moved from yellow.  Perhaps fresh leaves next time?

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Filed under Dye Plants, Natural dyeing

Dyeing with camellia flowers

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It’s camellia season here.  We have two camellias, a red flowering variety and a more compact white flowering variety.  I put up a jar of camellia flowers a while back using the Stuff Steep and Store method… I couldn’t resist trying!  For those who don’t know what I am talking about–this is a method of ‘preservation dyeing’ developed by India Flint and published in this book.  There is also a rather wonderful online pantry of people’s dye jars to peruse and become inspired by, should you wish.

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However, I had no idea whether camellia flowers give reliable dye when I stuffed those blooms in the jar.  So I felt heartened when I found Aphee showing her camellia dyes on Ravelry.  She has posted about them on her blog a few times, too.  She was inspired by a Japanese blog.  My French is not very good, but my Japanese is non-existent: I enjoyed the pictures though!!

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Aphee’s posts suggest that camellia flowers give colour, that the contents of my jar are a promising combination, and that the nature of the dyestuff is exactly the kind India Flint says Stuff, Steep and Store works especially well for.  This, I had hoped for, but not expected.  I decided that while the camellias were blooming, I may as well try dyeing by more usual methods.

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I gathered all the fallen blooms and tried to rinse the mud and mulch from them.  Meanwhile, our chooks were out wandering the yard–and the camellias are their favourite dust bathing spot.  The edge of the bed must be in the rain shadow of the verandah, so the soil there is still dry while the whole garden has been generously rain watered lately.

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They left big circles of earth on the paving where they shook out the dust once they were finished!  The camellias soon turned brown though I kept the heat low.  This is one of the reasons the preservation dyeing method seems so promising for dyestuffs like these.

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Well… the result in this case was not impressive.  This test sample was barely nudged out of the cream and white it was before dyeing.  Longer heating didn’t change that at all.  So–let that be another example of the mysterious in natural dyeing for the time being.  Aphee is doing something differently to me and I have no idea what it is!  I’ll put the next clutch of fallen blooms in jars until I have a new thought… who knows what I might learn between now and next camellia season?

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Filed under Dye Plants, Natural dyeing

Bundle dyeing–and a new book

After the recent massive vat dyeing project, and with so many Eucalyptus Cinerea leaves lying around drying slowly, I was itching to dye some bundles. After a full day of mordanting and dyeing and sewing in windy overcast weather… here’s the view over the back fence and up into the sky.

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I had a piece of silk twill left when one of my workshop participants didn’t appear. In it went.  I also had a linen shirt and a cotton t shirt sourced at op shops and ready for renewal that I had mordanted in summer.  By the time I tied those bundles the sun was setting.

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I filled the pot with madder exhaust, and topped it up with some of my very-much reused alum pot. As the remains of the madder rose up the fabric and the temperature rose, the sun went down.

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When I opened these first two bundles the impact of the chalk in the madder pot became clear.  And despite having allowed the leaves to dry for days, it is midwinter here.  Those leaves would have started out full of water, and they are drying very slowly.  Interesting results… This is the silk twill.  The round green shapes are from dried E Cladocalyx ‘Vintage Red’ leaves.

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This is the t shirt.

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Here is the part of the t-shirt bundle that was in the madder exhaust/alum blend.  So little colour from the E Cinerea!

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I decided to set the third bundle (linen shirt) aside and give it some more time in the pot, which I did after work later in the week. Front view:

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Back view.

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If you wish you could try this method and have experiments of your own and bundles to untie at your place–but you’re not sure where to start, India Flint has just published ‘the bundle book’.  It is a concise introduction to her technique on fabrics and on paper.  You can see an extensive preview if you follow the link.  This book is unspeakably cute–being both small and exquisitely illustrated with photos to inspire.

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It presents information about techniques (such as dyeing paper) not covered in her earlier books, strategies for sustainable and safe dyeing and a history of the eco-print method.  It also addresses fresh ideas developed since the publication of Eco Colour and Second Skin.  And, it is full of India Flint’s inimitable voice.  I am old enough to remember when recipe books were sold on  the basis of recipes and not celebrity cooks, and when the writing was bland and spreadable.  I don’t miss the bland and spreadable writing, though I’m less sure about the cult of celebrity cooks.  No danger of bland here!  I very much enjoy the sense of a unique intelligence at work on subject matter I think about a lot that is a feature of India Flint’s writing.  It is a rich addition to her insights and strategies about harvest, recycling and dyeing.

This book is published on demand, which is a no waste, effective way of publishing a book for something short of a mass market. I suspect it also means that the book you order in Australia is printed here, but a book ordered in North America will be printed there, and not have to travel the seas or skies to reach you.  The printed versions of the book are fairly expensive, however.  If your wallet is up for it, it’s a great way to support an independent artist and the end product is delectable.  If your wallet isn’t up for it, the downloadable pdf option is instant and very affordable, and still a great way to support an independent artist.

I’m looking forward to trying out dyeing paper… perhaps when the rain pauses (I went out to figure out why the gutters were overflowing mid-edit on this post–and fixed the trouble with my dyeing tongs!).  While the rain continues, I’m having a knitting jag suitable to the weather…

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Filed under Book Review, Leaf prints, Natural dyeing

Dyes of antiquity: Madder root

Three cheers for dried madder root!

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You may remember that I acquired some through the Guild.  I set out by pouring boiling water over it twice, and draining off the resulting liquid.  This is a strategy which is usually described as a good idea in order to help separate some of the brown and yellow pigments in the root from those which might produce red.  The resulting liquid was very dark brown.  I saved it for later experimentation.  I’ll get back to that!

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Every long term reader of this blog knows I can organise orange dye in a heartbeat, so I was hoping for red from madder.  When seen at the workshop I ran at the Guild, it was looking rather orange.

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However, time is needed.  And gentle heat.  This pot produced some light reds at the Guild. Once again, the cold processed alum, long steeped sample gave the most intense colour. Rhubarb (the two samples on the right hand side), not so much.

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I didn’t think it was done, however, so I took the whole dyebath home.  Happily, no mishaps en route.  Since then, I’ve been happily trying to exhaust this madder. I have overdyed grey corriedale. The fleece took up the dye differently in different parts of the locks (the weathered paler tips most of all).

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I turned it into roving while I kept dyeing…

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When I ran a dye bath with the rinse water… to my surprise it gave a strong red, stronger than the exhaust dyebath by far.  Here it is on the left, with the original dye bath on the right for comparison.

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I also dyed quite a bit of merino roving I happened to have put by, achieving three different shades. And some more grey corriedale… not bad going from madder root that might have been in those jars for decades.

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