Tag Archives: think globally

Many moths and much mending

This week, there has been a rather sad revelation. Followed by a lot of mending.  In fairness to the grubs who ate my woolens–they only made small holes.  It’s just that they made a lot of them.  It began when I found another hole in this garment that I mended only a few weeks back.

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Soon mended.

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Then another wooly item with a few little holes in it.  No sooner did I mend the first hole than I see this one nearby.  That telltale ladder is the sign that ‘a stitch in time saves nine’ is going to be the story of this fabric from this point onward.

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Oh dear.

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Rather more sadly, this newer garment has come to grief too.

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I’m still deploying my mother’s favoured approach to darning: first secure the edges of the hole.  Then stitch across in one direction, creating lines of thread across the hole, leaving a little loop at each end of each line.  This accommodates the fact that this is a woven darn inserted into a far stretchier knit fabric.

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Then, stitch another row of lines in the other direction, weaving with your needle tip when you come to the gap to be filled.  This is an undergarment, so I sometimes just darn on the outside, loops and all, where I can see the finished effect.

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But there were more holes, so I kept going on the inside, first stitching one way across the holes and then changing direction and stitching across the first row and weaving threads across the hole itself and any ladders and weak parts.

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Mum taught me during Busy Bee Week, a fundraiser for the Brownies (so I was about ten).  We were living in a small mining town in the middle of Western Australia: Kambalda, then one of the hubs of the nickel boom.  One neighbour keen to use my talents gave me a white cotton tennis sock to darn and my mother set me to it with cotton machine thread and a needle!  She didn’t own a darning mushroom.  This is a tool I have discovered since, and it is a lot easier to use than Mum’s improvisation, a Vegemite glass (upturn a small drinking glass and insert into sock, proceed to darn).  The handle is the key feature for ease of use. A glass, or even making a circle of your own curled fingers, will do the job.

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Quite neat really.  But.  Nothing can make a darn right smack bang in the middle of the front of your top flattering.  Just as well this one won’t be on public display while on my body!

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A friend who has been similarly afflicted (and is in the Heroine category of Menders) told me about the CSIRO guidelines for managing this kind of problem.  I’ll be making use of her research as well as the sticky pheromone traps that let me know I had a problem last summer.  For now I am considering whether re-bundling these tops might make those silky darns blend in better… or whether I should wear them with pride, as recommended by Tom of Holland and his Visible Mending Programme.  I can recommend this post of his on one major commission, mended with love, thought and skill.

I admit, I’ve been wearing mends with pride for my whole adult life–but there are limits. I have to say that while my darns will do the job, they are not up there in the Tom of Holland category of mending as an artform!

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Bundle dyeing–and a new book

After the recent massive vat dyeing project, and with so many Eucalyptus Cinerea leaves lying around drying slowly, I was itching to dye some bundles. After a full day of mordanting and dyeing and sewing in windy overcast weather… here’s the view over the back fence and up into the sky.

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I had a piece of silk twill left when one of my workshop participants didn’t appear. In it went.  I also had a linen shirt and a cotton t shirt sourced at op shops and ready for renewal that I had mordanted in summer.  By the time I tied those bundles the sun was setting.

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I filled the pot with madder exhaust, and topped it up with some of my very-much reused alum pot. As the remains of the madder rose up the fabric and the temperature rose, the sun went down.

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When I opened these first two bundles the impact of the chalk in the madder pot became clear.  And despite having allowed the leaves to dry for days, it is midwinter here.  Those leaves would have started out full of water, and they are drying very slowly.  Interesting results… This is the silk twill.  The round green shapes are from dried E Cladocalyx ‘Vintage Red’ leaves.

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This is the t shirt.

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Here is the part of the t-shirt bundle that was in the madder exhaust/alum blend.  So little colour from the E Cinerea!

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I decided to set the third bundle (linen shirt) aside and give it some more time in the pot, which I did after work later in the week. Front view:

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Back view.

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If you wish you could try this method and have experiments of your own and bundles to untie at your place–but you’re not sure where to start, India Flint has just published ‘the bundle book’.  It is a concise introduction to her technique on fabrics and on paper.  You can see an extensive preview if you follow the link.  This book is unspeakably cute–being both small and exquisitely illustrated with photos to inspire.

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It presents information about techniques (such as dyeing paper) not covered in her earlier books, strategies for sustainable and safe dyeing and a history of the eco-print method.  It also addresses fresh ideas developed since the publication of Eco Colour and Second Skin.  And, it is full of India Flint’s inimitable voice.  I am old enough to remember when recipe books were sold on  the basis of recipes and not celebrity cooks, and when the writing was bland and spreadable.  I don’t miss the bland and spreadable writing, though I’m less sure about the cult of celebrity cooks.  No danger of bland here!  I very much enjoy the sense of a unique intelligence at work on subject matter I think about a lot that is a feature of India Flint’s writing.  It is a rich addition to her insights and strategies about harvest, recycling and dyeing.

This book is published on demand, which is a no waste, effective way of publishing a book for something short of a mass market. I suspect it also means that the book you order in Australia is printed here, but a book ordered in North America will be printed there, and not have to travel the seas or skies to reach you.  The printed versions of the book are fairly expensive, however.  If your wallet is up for it, it’s a great way to support an independent artist and the end product is delectable.  If your wallet isn’t up for it, the downloadable pdf option is instant and very affordable, and still a great way to support an independent artist.

I’m looking forward to trying out dyeing paper… perhaps when the rain pauses (I went out to figure out why the gutters were overflowing mid-edit on this post–and fixed the trouble with my dyeing tongs!).  While the rain continues, I’m having a knitting jag suitable to the weather…

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Of shoes, and ships, and sealing-wax. I mean, of silk, and string, and bias binding…

Sometimes you need a lot of Jabberwocky genius to join disparate elements into any kind of intriguing whole.  Or perhaps you just need rhyming couplets. I have neither, but I do have string and bias binding. I blame India Flint for infecting me with her enthusiasm for twining string.  I loved doing it with plant leaves, but it required pre-planning.  String from fabric shreds… you just decide it’s time and get going!

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I have shaggy string from my pyjama-making jag a while back.

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However, Wendi of the Treasure suggested silk string.  And then along came an opportunity to dye silk all kinds of wild colours.  I took up some silk paj that was among my very first Eco-Colour adventures. It took colour then, but not in any really riveting way, and it has been in the cupboard awaiting a new idea for some years.  Wendi’s was the new idea.  When it hit my workshop dye pots, the original onion skin and eucalypt dyed portions created all kinds of interesting effects.

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Thanks to Wendi and India, I now have logwood-dyed string so deep purple it is almost black, madder-dyed orange string, and cochineal pink string.

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But there is more… I have had some ties unpicked, ironed and ready to be made into bias binding for years.  What can I say?  I have been engaged in a task in relation to my day job so mind numbingly dull that I realised the time for bias binding making was upon me, all of a sudden!  The existing collection of tie-bias binding was getting low.

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I now have this…

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And this… so if I am struck by the urge to create garments again soon, I’ll be able to create beguiling interior details in a heartbeat.

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Mercifully, my marking is over, too.

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Spinning, mending and a gift of hand-knit eucalyptus-dyed socks

I keep thinking I’ll get knitting on some big project or other… but I seem to keep spinning instead. Alpaca dyed with eucalyptus keeps happening…

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There has been some random polwarth spinning from batts I prepared some time ago (and full of nepps they are too!) Love that maidenhair fern, a gift from my mother that is really thriving at present.

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There has been dull mending that doesn’t warrant a picture, but I seem to have had a small release from my usual functional approach.  This extremely utilitarian apron must date back almost 20 years… it is that long since I made my living baking and kitchen-handing.  I think I bought it second hand.  It had been discarded because one of the tapes was missing.  I long ago replaced it with some bias binding sewed in half, which I assume was on hand at the time.  It certainly isn’t a match for the other tape!  And the apron itself has had a hole for a very long time.

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Not any more.  I now use it for spinning–to catch all the random fibres and dirt and little bits of dried plant that drop from any fleece I have prepared myself, no matter how many rinses.  I also mended this wool knit on the train one morning, beginning as I waited at the station.  Just a little hole up by the neckline.

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I bought this garment years ago from Soewn Earth.  It has faded quite a bit, but I am still enjoying it… and considering whether it might be time for a re-bundle. First–across (with eucalyptus dyed silk thread)…

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Then in the other direction…

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Maybe later some embroidery for sheer decoration?  And finally, some socks for a friend with several new jobs and rather small feet.  She hasn’t had a pair from me in ages.  I put these in the mail to be a surprise parcel.  Sorry about the office desk pictures on an overcast day.  Once I finish a gift I get impatient to have it meet its intended recipient.

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They succeeded in being a surprise and she sounded delighted.  It’s midwinter here and they arrived in the week prior to the longest night of the year.  Perfect for chilly nights.

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A funny thing happened in the night… and a sign of hope

When I came home from my run early this morning I realised there had been action overnight.At the scene of the loss of three immense trees only too recently, I saw this.

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And this.

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Here’s the close up.

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This raised my curiosity about yesterday’s losses.  I didn’t think I had the heart for it, but in the end I went to see.

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Heartbreaking to see the space where those trees stood.

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But the commentary was to the point.

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Thanks so much for all your kind comments since the past post.  I read them as they came in and appreciated them very much but didn’t have the heart to answer them all for a minute.  Given how devastated I felt yesterday, I thought my friends might need cheering up.

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Attentive readers might recognise this parcel! Some of that string is made from the same pair of pants that went onto the feature panels…

On an altogether happy note, during the big infrastructure works in our neighbourhood, one of the Department of Transport and Infrastructure employees who cares about the state of the environment decided what she might be able to do in the face of so much tree felling and habitat loss was get bird boxes put into any tree of any size on public land in our area.  She initiated a project in collaboration with local schools whose students painted the boxes.  they have been in place for a while and have been checked once or twice already (we have become vigilant and therefore approach men on ladders who are looking at trees to check what they are doing, these days).  Today as I left home I saw a woman peering up into a nearby River Red Gum (E Camaldulensis) we managed to save.  She took a photo of one of my Beloved Tree banners, but she also took several at what struck me as an unusual angle.  This afternoon I saw why.

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It is an overcast and rainy day, and this is the best photo I could get.  But that is quite unmistakably a rainbow lorikeet who has taken up residence in one of the bird boxes and felt safe enough at that great height to look down on me without budging a millimetre.  Best thing.

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The roar of chainsaws

I was just settling in to working at home this morning when I had a phone call.  One friend had been on her way to work by train when she saw two more massive trees about to be felled nearby.  She called home and her partner contacted me asking if I could offer backup at the site while she tried to contact the Council.  My friends are awesome.  I felt proud as I stood in support.  I have to say I feel so heartbroken at present I left most of the speaking to them and supplied moral support, numbers and hugs.

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So I went over.  These two spotted gums (E Maculata) are standing far more than the 10 metres away from any dwelling that would make them exempt from tree protection legislation.  I include the blokes in high visibility clothing for scale. Well, we didn’t let these trees go without a fight, contacting the Council, a local councillor, our State MP, the local newspaper… and so on, while holding respectful conversations with the men who were there to take the trees down.  It took some time to ascertain with confidence that the property owner needed, and had, a permit to fell them.  As events unfolded it became apparent that Council had recommended the application be refused and that this matter had gone to the Development Assessment Panel and been refused three times, finally being being approved on the fourth attempt, after 3 rejections.  I guess by now we know both that the 2011 changes to tree protection laws have removed many of the barriers to removal of trees like these, and that DAP is not a great protection either.

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These trees stand opposite the Goodwood Railway station and shade it in summer.  Rosellas and magpies were flying in and out of them as we spoke with the tree fellers in person and various other people by phone.  Of course, their proximity to the station also means the trees are standing in a small patch where hundreds of trees have been lost in the last few years and the roar of chainsaws has been a recurrent, powerful, appalling theme.  Friends came past on their way to work or from the shops or walking their dogs, expressing their sorrow, regret and anger.  One woman from my street, evidently feeling as heartbroken and unbelieving as I was, said: ‘I have to admit, I don’t like living here anymore.’

 

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Those birds won’t be able to live here anymore.  Meanwhile, we are still waiting for any sign of the promised revegetation of our area.  We have, however, been supplied with mulch.  Where once stood 20 trees, in just one patch I know well, we now have this.

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I try hard not to think about where the chainsaws were roaring to create that mulch.

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Garments to bags…

The time has come for some of my clothes to find new uses.  These worn out jeans have had years of use as jeans…

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I made these shorts from a length of linen I found on a pile of hard rubbish on a Brisbane kerb when I was there one summer.  They have had years of hard wear and been re-dyed once or twice.  Surprisingly enough the screen printed design on the pocket details didn’t take dye!

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They are now completely threadbare in places that would create embarrassment if they were to fail, further evidence of the hard wearing qualities of linen.

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I paired the jeans up with some leftovers from past sewing adventures, which finished out the lining.

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The jeans pockets went on the inside, retained for future use.  The outside features the pockets of a pair of hemp shorts that hit the dye pot some time ago.

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I teamed the linen shorts up with the remainders of a pair of men’s twill cotton pants bought for a dollar from the Red Cross.

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I love a beautifully executed pocket, and there are two of them featured on the outside of this bag, while the back pockets of the shorts are still on the inside of the bag.

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In between the sewing, I spent the weekend mordanting fibre and continuing to try to exhaust dye baths from the workshop a fortnight ago!  By the end of the weekend I was down to pastels… And there was the odd Stuff, Steep and Store jar to be going on with.  Using the microwave has lowered the barriers to taking an opportunistic dye find or something that seems promising but whose dye properties are unknown to me and putting it up for future reference.  Here, rat-nibbled pomegranate remains collected off the ground… as no edible pomegranate would be turned to dye at our house!

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Windfall!

My friend emailed to say that a branch had come down on her Eucalyptus Cinerea.  I was visiting anyway, and I think I’m in a much more physically capable position to deal with a fallen branch than anyone at her house.  So I packed my loppers, gloves, secateurs and sacks.  We’ve had gale force winds and lots of rain here and it was late on a windy rainy day when I arrived.

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Well… I managed to saw up the bough and cut up the woody parts and get them all into the green bin that signifies they will go to commercial composting through council collection, and then we packed stuffed the leafy stuff into three feed sacks.  Wowsers!  My friend couldn’t believe I would use them all.  Little does she know! (I am glad to hear I haven’t been boring her stupid with details that don’t interest her).  Then I realised that in spite of it being cold and wet, I need to let these leaves dry out, because these sacks are not permeable enough to let them dry and I don’t want mould.

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The wheelbarrow–ever useful–and my bike trailer were pressed into use.  I have had about 30 years of trusty service from that little box on wheels (the bike trailer).  But that was not enough…

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Leaves in the bathtub…!  My friends are happy and have one less physically taxing job to do in wild weather.  Their garden is in better shape.  The gum tree is still immense, the bay tree no longer has a broken bough tangled up in it,and the smaller plants underneath are safer.  I was up to doing the labour, delighted to be able to help them out, and now have loads of lovely leaves to work with.  I know it’s cheesy, but I have to say that was a win-win-windfall…!

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Filed under Dye Plants, Eucalypts

Dyes of antiquity: Usnea spp lichen

I could tell the Guild member who suggested that I be the one to use some of the plant dyestuffs that have been left at the Guild was as appalled as I was to see that there was a large plastic bag full of packs of lichens in one of the cupboards.  They were packaged up in such a way as to suggest they might have been purchased dried from a supplier in a time when understanding of the precarity of lichen was less widespread.  Concern for the wellbeing of dyers and the planet is widespread at the Guild now and I assume, it was widespread there in the past when levels of information were different, too.  I think it would be well recognised now that these are not sustainable dyes.  And to be honest, the descriptions of the colours some of these lichens will give made me wonder why anyone would disturb something so slow growing when there are prolific sources readily accessible in the suburbs.  No point asking now. No way to know when these lichens were harvested, either.  I am guessing, many years ago.

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The only thing sadder than these lichens having been killed for dyeing would be composting them without using them at all–So I chose one of the types of lichen for which I could readily find instructions and began what is going to be a lengthy investigation. Out of the bag with ‘Usnea spp’ and into rainwater for a long soak.

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I took Karen Casselman’s advice and steeped for some days in an alkaline solution before heating and cooling several times.

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On the big day (9 days after beginning), I strained out the lichen—using a pair of preloved pantyhose which had been thoughtfully brought into the Guild for just such purposes to strain out all the itty bitty lichen particles.  Then the diluting, heating and dyeing began.  One of my new rolls royce sampler cards (two different mordants, two different applications of each) and 50g of Polwarth entered the pot.

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I simply don’t have the experience to know whether I did something wrong, or the age of the lichen made a difference, or what-but both my sample card and my fleece turned tan while the dye bath remained orange.

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Not so special, in my opinion.

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The stash of dyestuff also included many items that were labelled, and some which were identifiable without labels, and then there were some like this:

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I checked with my sweetheart, who was a long time woodworker.  She said ‘looks and smells like meranti to me’. This looks quite unlike osage orange, sandalwood and logwood (all of which were present in the trove from the Guild).  I did a test… and nothing exciting happened. This batch of wood shavings went to the compost.

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The rest was sorted out and repackaged and relabelled where necessary.  Ready for further dyeing adventures!

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For the love of mending: Make do and mend afternoon

We had a make do and mend afternoon with friends recently.  We’re investigating actions we might take about climate change, and we’ve begun with some conversations about consumerism.  Who knows where that might lead?  I began by stitching up a torn out seam for my partner and tightening all the screws on the clothes rack so it works properly. Meanwhile a rusty frypan was rehabilitated, an electrical plug was replaced, and the endless chewing of moths on fine wool was darned in by others.

I have a wardrobe which is heavy on the bottom end.  I always have more clothes suitable for gardening and doing filthy jobs than I have clothes for best.  And my favourites are usually my gardening clothes.  Things that are no longer suitable for wearing to work or to visit my mother, unless I’ll be weeding while I’m there. My father is a bit like me.  When I knit him socks he puts them in the drawer until he has worn out a previous pair.  My current favourite jeans are well past their best, and weeks ago they went through in the knee.  I kept thinking I would turn them into a bag, but then I kept taking them out of the reuse pile and pulling them on.  So with a crowd of friends who were mending and repairing too, and a pot of pumpkin soup to keep it cheery, I patched them.  Maybe one day this patch will be part of a bag!

For those who wish they knew how to patch the knee of jeans, step one for a simple mend is to rip out whichever seam is less complicated.  Leave the flat felled, beautifully topstitched seam intact and rip the other one, if there is a choice.

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Choose a nice patch.  This one was once part of a pair of cotton twill pants and is now eco printed with E Cinerea leaves.  Trim back the hole to some solid fabric, and shape it.  My mother taught me this mend and always created a straight sided shape, like a rectangle.  I decided to try something rounded.  Put the patch on the inside, and turn the edges of the jeans under all around, attaching to the patch fabric. Tacking would be a great way to proceed, but I prefer pins.  Call me a daredevil!

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On the inside, turn the edges of the patch under, toward the wrong side of the jeans.  Stitching the first seam and then turning the second would have been a good idea, but I was having an interesting conversation and didn’t want to leave the room to use the sewing machine yet!

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Stitch around each edge.

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Apologies for the indoor pictures on a rainy day–but here is the patch, being a mend on gardening jeans, in the garden, with the sun out, however weakly!

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One of my treasured friends brought some socks with him.  It’s a shame about the lighting, but never mind.

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I made these from Cleckheaton 5 ply crepe in pure wool (not the best possible choice for socks) in 2009. Here they are on my desk at work in all their glory in 2009.  Who can believe I managed to find the photo (or understand why I took it at work?)

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The stripes at the tops are all my samples for the previous period–a metre or two of yarn dyed with samples of local eucalypts and other plants.  The rue dyepot was the worst ever–but a triumph of neighbourhood cooperation involving a rendezvous at the local train station where my friend handed a bag of rue prunings out the door and I stood there ready receive them as he continued on his way on the train relieved of his pungent burden!  One of the socks is all in orange tones and the other tans and greens.  Rue.  The ordinary kind does not give red, my friends, take it from me (or sort me out if you know how to get red from it–seems like there is a Siberian kind that might give red–but only from the seeds–or some such).  I digress.  These socks have been worn a lot, which is very flattering, and my heart’s friend wanted to keep them, though perhaps only for in-slipper wear.  We consulted about whether it was feasible to darn these holes.  I wasn’t sure.  He can darn but has not kept up his knitting skills in a period when carpentry has been needed more at his place.

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He has the biggest feet on my knitting roster.  These holes are BIG.  I wasn’t sure about darning them.  He went off to tend to a bicycle (there were others people dealing with wood and still others entertaining children with the wheelbarrow and others still darning).  I thought it over, no doubt drawing on things I’ve seen and read, and wondered if I could just pick up and knit on a patch.  I pulled out 4 ply patonyle dyed with eucalypts.  I’ve learned a few things about getting a strong colour since I dyed these socks.  the original wool in the socks has worn thin and the 4 ply was fine for the job.  I decided on a visible mending aesthetic.

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At first, I wasn’t sure how to join on the sides on.  Then it dawned on me… pick up a further stitch and knit or purl it together with the edge stitch.  What could be simpler?

Put your sunglasses on, I must have changed the settings on the camera.

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When I got to the end of each hole, I decided to graft.

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I picked up more stitches and kitchener stitched (grafted) them together.  And in the end… the conversation was so good I mended all three of the big holes.  Comfy socks to wear when your feet are up.  Eat your hearts out!

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