Category Archives: Natural dyeing

A little more embroidery

My needle and I moved on to another little indigo dyed bag that arrived at our house as a printed calico bag full of bath salts. Here it is on a table in a coffee shop, in progress.

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I love the way the silk thread has a little sheen over the matte background of the calico.

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This one is stitched with silk thread dyed with cold processed austral indigo (silvery grey), indigo, eucalyptus cinerea exhaust and plum pine.

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I like these subtle colours, even though some of them felt really disappointing when first they emerged from the dye. They work beautifully in this context, I think.  Another lesson in life from the dye pot!

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Beautification through embroidery

Somehow I have fallen down another rabbit hole… I seem to be stitching.  A lot.  Still with the project of making what is merely functional, more beautiful.  I started out with three calico drawstring bags that had held bath salts and soap nuts.  I had a spectacular dyeing fail using eucalyptus.  Go figure.  Certainly not an improvement!

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I dipped them in the indigo vat a few times, a while back.  Better.

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Then one day I suddenly saw what to do.  I started and then kept going.  Here I am with it in progress on my lap on the bus to work.

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Threads dyed with madder, grevillea robusta, and eucalyptus.

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It’s so much better!

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Last night it went home with a friend.  It is going to become home for a deck of tarot cards.  And I have started on the others…

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Bundle of beautification

I am still thinking about the difference between my toleration of ugly but functional things–and observing friends and companions at Tin Can Bay who instead, make everything within reach more beautiful. I have a perfectly functional merino underlayer that is a fairly ordinary shade of mauve, and as I wear it every week at this time of year, I have had it in contemplation.  I finally decided that the time had come, only to find a little ladder.  That was quickly mended with logwood dyed thread.  This picture gives a fair sense of the colour of the garment.

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I have mended this top quite a bit due to the monster season of m*th activity a year or two back.  The darns are in various colours, some quite tasteful.  These ones are still pale blue and pale purple, as they were after early washfastness testing in 2013.  I dyed these threads with plum pine.

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Others are a lot more random!

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Having darned over breakfast, I set out to plant boobialla and saltbush, with a plan about collecting dyestuffs.

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I feel sorry fr these plants going into such sad looking land…

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But I have not lost a single plant in this patch and if they all grow it will make such a difference.  Those that went in a few months ago are much bigger already.  Someone stopped as I planted and said ‘You are such a good public person!’

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Plants in, weeding done, I headed out to this E Scoparia.  It’s a beauty with particularly slender leaves. The people whose fence it overhangs don’t like it tickling their hair as they pass and resent it hanging over their fence.  So hard to understand!  I selectively cut to minimise their struggle with it when I want to use this plant. I make it shorter over the footpath and then trim the lowest hanging parts over their fence.

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Home again, home again!

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The tree is in flower, but the flowers are small.  Love those pliable red stems.

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I settled on a pot full of dried E Cinerea leaves.  This rainwater tank finally has rain in it again.

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Then for the bundling part…  I always think I’ll be neater this time, and then make the usual scruffy bundle.

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Some time later, the leaves have  had  a head start and in goes the bundle.

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Well, I think this is an improvement!  Here is the front.  The logwood didn’t really survive the dye pot very well, which works. The eucalyptus dyed threads have stayed their previous colours, but now blend in. The indigo dyed thread is still blue!

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And this is the back.  No regrets from me!

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Filed under Eucalypts, Leaf prints, Natural dyeing

Students of Sustainability

The national Students of Sustainability conference is in our own city this year, and I was asked to present. I did a few things, and one of them was a workshop on craft.  Once I started putting together what I thought I might take, my imagination went wild, as it so often does.  pretty soon I had made up a stack of mending kits.  So many other women’s haberdashery has come my way in the last decade or two, and I have been such an op shopping pack rat–that I have surplus.  Tins from my mother-out-law.  Tins from gifts.  Boxes from lovely stationery.  My friend’s Mum’s huge collection of machine sewing thread.  Needles from my grandma.  Buttons from everywhere including three generations of my own family.  When I went looking for the embroidery thread of my childhood, I found there wasn’t much of it, but there was a motherlode of darning wool and leather samples, all in a big tin with a little embroidery equipment and some English piecing left over from a quilt I began in primary school, finished as an adult and gave away the night I finished it–replete with 900, 3 cm squares of treasured fabrics gifted by my mother and grandmother for my fidgety little fingers to work on.

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Hopefully these kits will find happy homes with environmental activists whose stashes are not quite as replete as my own–they all went to new homes at the end of the workshop.  I took a couple of beanies to give away too.  Then I ironed some bunting that spent months in the street and came down when council decided on a permapine barrier to stop cars killing the plantings by the tram line (happiness!).  It’s a lesson in colourfastness (in which indigo dyeing beats commercial black dye and dress and quilt fabrics hands down and a second hand sheet fares very well).   The attendees had their own ideas about what bunting might be useful for, some of it became patches, flags, a bandanna, a bag and interfacing.

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Here I am packed and ready to go.  After this I added very warm clothing, and a big thermos of ginger tea with lime leaves and other good ingredients.  The basket on the left was apparently made by my Mum’s mother.  I borrowed it in Mum’s absence, carrying home fruit, veg and flowers when they were away, and it feels like good company somehow.  So I have both grandmas coming with me, dear as they both were. Along came the bundle book in case people wanted to know about the eco dyed fabrics we might stitch on (they sure did!  How did you do that?  Was asked and answered over and over again as I had leaf-printed fabrics for people to use and enjoy).  People also appreciated the very inspiring Little Book of Craftivism2015-07-11 16.04.39

This enthusiastic participant is modelling one of my beanies as embellished by his Mum.  ‘Lock the gate’ is a campaign against fracking in farming land.

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A few people learned how to sew for the very first time.

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There were some unique pouches and bags… people had some needed gentle time in their big week.  A few folk had a nap in the corner at some stage (camping out in the high wind and heavy rain the previous night must have been pretty tough).

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I was blessed with the support and company of a friend who is a fabulous maker and activist.  She came along as support crew and brought her many fine qualities to the event. And her mending, too!

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Filed under Craftivism, Leaf prints, Natural dyeing, Sewing

Whimsically cabled socks

Socks take a little while to knit.  Maybe 20 hours or more of knitting for a pair in 4 ply (fingering).  To be honest, I’m not sure.  Needless to say, I don’t sit down and time myself knitting them. I don’t knit them on a whim, they way I do hats, which just sit about waiting for the right head to come by.  I want them to be well received and they need to fit in more senses than one.  So, a little while back, there was a tracing of the foot.  Then I checked the preferences of the intended recipient, ordered BFL/silk sock yarn, and dyed it with eucalyptus.  To get a good strong colour, I dyed the 100g of yarn in four dye baths.  These socks have travelled, because in those hours of knitting, socks-in-the-making are my constant companions, which is one of the lovely things about them.  I enjoy the knitting, and I enjoy holding the intended recipient in my mind for the time the knitting takes. Here is the first sock, and that week’s reading for theory reading group.

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They came with me to hospital to visit a complicated relative who had a near death experience, twice (she is still alive).  They may not have brought her comfort but they brought me comfort.  The second hospital visit was so dim I did something quite inappropriate and had to rip back a bit.  They have been to some high level meetings.  They came to a very informal meeting with a workmate which was interrupted by another knitter (otherwise, a total stranger) who was beside herself to see socks being knit right there in front of her eyes.  My workmate is a generous man who didn’t flinch!  I have walked along knitting them from my bag.  They have been fondled lovingly by the odd stranger.  I was getting to the heel of the second sock when I went to Sydney.  Here we are in a cafe reading political theory (with relish).

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In front of a sculpture at a university in Sydney where I attended part of a conference where my beloved did a wonderful job of presenting.

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In a hotel room with a banksia cone.

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Waiting for a bus outside central railway station in Sydney.  Ask not what the other people waiting thought of my photographing a sock.  There is a lot going on outside Central at night and no one blinked.

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Almost done at Coogee Beach.

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Maybe you wanted to see Coogee beach?  Glorious!

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Toe grafted and ends darned in, in the Sydney airport.

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Here they are in better light after a nice steam press!

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I hope that they will be snug and long lasting… (non knitters: that is a reinforcing heel stitch you see there).

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And I hope that the whimsy of these cables will tickle India‘s fancy the way it tickles mine!  This design was suggested by one of my nearest and dearest, who first told me about India’s work years before I first saw it.  He was the first to have a whimsically cabled pair of socks made by me… and now there are two such pairs!  It is an absolute delight to be able to turn the generosity back toward someone who has been so exceedingly generous to me.

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Filed under Eucalypts, Knitting, Natural dyeing

Eco-printed scarves

I was rifling through some of the wool and silk items that I packed away protectively during summer, (when clothes m*ths are breeding) and realised I still have three scarf blanks that were given to me by friends. One is a wool gauze, I think.

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One is probably silk scrim.

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And the other looks like a finer grade of still quite open-weave silk.

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I had an idea for how they might find happy homes, and after some days of wishing but not finding time…

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These leaves were collected in the neighbourhood as they fell from trees lining a driveway.  And of course, eucalyptus!  One pot had a madder exhaust in it, because madder is never really exhausted as far as I can tell.

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Out they came…

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The silk scrim will need another dye bath, I think. The other two made me very happy–and this is good, because I planned for them to be part of my daughter’s birthday present.  I tried a different folding and wrapping strategy on the wool and love the way it came out.  The tie resist marks were great–

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There are leafy parts and abstract parts, parts that are burgundy or grey-black and others that are more orange.

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I tend to get more muted colours on silk, and this was no exception.  Still lovely, and just as important in this case, different.

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I hope she will like them both.  She lives in a colder part of the country and she does love a good scarf.

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And now… they have been folded, wrapped, tied with hand made string and placed in the post!

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Filed under Leaf prints, Natural dyeing

Alkanet and pomegranate

A friendly natural dyer (and highly accomplished spinner and weaver) from the Guild gave me a gift a while back.  Alkanet root! This is a dyestuff I had not expected ever to be able to use, and a welcome gift: very generous of him!

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Once it went into the bottom of the dye pot, its purpleness became ever clearer–albeit with some camera help!  Jenny Dean clearly doesn’t like the smell of alkanet, and I have seen other dyers suggest it is especially unpleasant.  For me, it evoked a rotting tropical fruit.  The kind of thing some people find delicious and others find appalling. I do prefer the lovely smell of madder or eucalypt, but wasn’t troubled by the alkanet root bath.  Mind you, I dye out of doors.

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As it happened, this was the same day I made a delectable juice from the last of the season’s pomegranates.  Years back, I  noticed just one pomegranate tree in all the streets of the neighbourhood where I walk that never, ever, had a rotting fruit fallen underneath it.  The tree was always in superb condition–clearly loved, tended and cared for by knowledgeable people.  One day I found the people from that garden in the front yard and asked what they did with the fruit, because at that point, no one I knew had ever served them up to me (all this has since changed).  The man I asked went into the house and brought me out a sample of the pomegranate juice he had made for his dinner guests!  And then explained how to make it by releasing the jewel like seeds from the skin and then putting them in a food processor and straining the results.  So.  That’s how I had used the fruit.  And this is all that was left.

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Jenny Dean came with me again for the ride, and some of my cold alum mordanted fleece-of-Viola went into the pots.  Once I had carried out Jenny Dean’s alkanet instructions, I threw more fleece into the pot to see whether there would be any additional colour in there.

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On the left, the alkanet purple.  Upper right, alkanet exhaust, which I would call a pale brown.  Bottom right, the pomegranate yellow.  Subtle but pleasing.

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Indigo fructose vat

I am determined to learn to use Michel Garcia’s fructose indigo vat rather than the very simple but clearly toxic and stinky hydrosulphite vat. I am also on a mission to create handspun, plant dyed yarns for colourwork, and I have a pattern in mind which requires some greens.  Also a plan about sock yarn in which this previously undyed, now (osage orange yellow) skein of BFL/silk becomes a variegated green.

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I prepared the vat and waited for a bronze sheen and yellow-green liquid below as signs reduction (the removal of oxygen from the vat) had been achieved.  I have a Ph meter to ensure the Ph is within range.

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I had success with reducing the vat but a lot of difficulty in getting the Ph into a range suitable for wool.  In the end, I decided to make the most of it and dipped my ugly cotton bags several times.

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In all I dipped them three times and they are now an old denim colour which is a decided improvement.

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Once I had managed the Ph, next came fleece from Viola, previously dyed in coreopsis or osage orange.

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Finally, in went the gloriously yellow sock yarn.  That yellow was so awesome I was tempted to leave it as it stood.  But I was looking for yellows and various shades of green, and here they are, ready for the next stage of my cunning plan….

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Madder

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I still have some dyestuffs that have been given to me… and before I dig out my home grown madder, I thought I would use the last of the dried madder root I have.

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First, the boiling water soak and pour off (saving the poured off liquid for another bath, in my case).  Jenny Dean is my guide in the case of madder though I also read Jim Liles and Rebecca Burgess…

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I decided to try to manage the madder (as opposed to having little particles distributed through my fleece and yarn) by putting it in a recycled nylon stocking–which you can see at the bottom of the picture poking out of the dyebath.  First I added alum mordanted BFL-silk sock yarn.  The first fibres to enter are those likely to be most red.

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Over time the shade really does deepen.

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Eventually I decided to add fleece, as you can see.

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I did several exhaust baths, including one or two some days later.  Then I did one a week later and still got apricot!  I also tried a different method by which Jenny Dean (in her rather lovely new book A Heritage of Colour) achieves aubergine.  I was sceptical about this method.  Not because I doubt Jenny Dean really gets purple in this way–I am sure she does!  But because it calls for using judgment in the matter of mordanting and modifier, and I know my judgment is nowhere as refined as hers.  I further prejudiced my chances by using the poured off first bath rather than using the most powerful dye bath I could.  I had, you know, only so much madder, so many plans, and only a modicum of confidence to be going on with.  I kept looking at this brownish bath and thinking it was not succeeding.  To my surprise though–once the fleece actually came out of the bath and I pulled it from the rinse bucket, it clearly was a shade of purple.

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The sock yarn–made me happy.  It came out of the dyeing process all scruffy looking, reminding me to always do my own skein ties.  But I love the colour!

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Yellow!

I have been so excited by my recent colour knitting success that I have been moved to dye more shades and spin with the intention of colour knitting.  Not just spinning up all kinds of stuff and then deciding to use it in stranded colourwork on a whim.  Though that turned out remarkably well, and the errant graph book with the knobby club rush design in it magically appeared on the weekend, nestled among sheet music (my filing clearly needs more work–I had been looking for it in the dyeing and knitting collections–what was I thinking)!

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I’ve been cold mordanting Viola’s fleece with alum in preparation.  She is a white/silver grey/dark grey sheep, and that will give me room for a bit of heathery loveliness, I think.  These big jars were being thrown out at the Guild and this seems a decent use for them. Some BFL/silk sock yarn has been getting the same cold mordant treatment, because why not?

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I had quite a lot of coreopsis flowers, because my mother is such a generous woman, she saves her dead flowers for me. And in case anyone ever wondered where my thrifty ways come from, these flowers were lovingly collected as they wilted and then dried–and then delivered in paper bags previously containing mushrooms and purchases from the newsagent, and in a reused cardboard box that was lined with two layers of pre-loved Christmas wrapping paper. Bless her heart, my Mum is a treasure.

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There were also osage orange shavings that had been left at the Guild.  Many years old, to judge by the packaging.  At times such as this, Jenny Dean is my trusted Guide.  So I followed her instructions from Wild Colour as best I could.  It’s an interesting thing, this dyeing with only me there in body, but with a little posse of imaginary friends about me, some of whom I’ve never met! Jenny says osage orange can give more dye on a  later extraction and India would no doubt agree on principle (I have been rereading Eco Colour)… so with the three of us in agreement on that, I planned an exhaust bath from the beginning and in due course, decided to honour Mum’s collection by tossing that in too…

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After the first stage of heating, I filtered out the dyestuffs through an old nylon stocking (also deposited at the Guild in quantity–more of my imaginary friends present on this occasion in tangible and intangible ways!)

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And in went the fibres.  They had a nice long wait in the dye baths after the heating stage was over.

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The sock yarn took the dye with alacrity–that golden yellow is rather lovely, I think–I am planning to overdye with indigo, but this yellow is glorious as it is.  I thought I remembered the coreopsis being a more golden yellow and the osage orange being a colder shade, but not this time.  They look remarkably similar.

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The exhaust bath made use of the stocking too… and out came some paler but still yellow fleece.  My fingers are itching but the day job calls… and there has been yet more knitting…

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