Category Archives: Sewing

Preparing for the Royal Show

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I have decided to enter the Royal Show this year.  I decided to enter last year but missed a step and prepared (several) entries that I couldn’t enter in the end.  Oh well.  It isn’t as if I baked a cake and it ended in mould. I am not all that interested in the competition part, although of course it is flattering to get a ribbon, if I get a ribbon.  But really, I like to be part of showing the crowds that come along that spinning and dyeing are still alive and happening nearby, that these crafts are creative as well as traditional and I like to give my friends at the Guild someone to compete with.

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The hardest category for me to prepare is the ‘spinning perfection’ category.  There are much better spinners than me at the Guild, and some of them are sure to enter.  I count it a privilege to be beaten by people with such fine skills (and I hope it makes winning sweeter for them, that there is someone else entering).  But this is an opportunity to build my skills and spin intentionally–because sometimes often I just spin for serendipity, which is a different kind of pleasure.  Even when I spin intentionally, I sometimes get surprises. Spinning is like a lot of crafts–it is simple enough to learn the basics, but you could spend an entire lifetime acquiring skill and still run out of time! This category requires three skeins of 50 g each, one fine, one medium and one bulky.  Traditionally, it is presented in natural wool, even though this is not a requirement of the category.  I have never seen a dyed skein in this category.  This is fleece from ‘Viola’ –a gift from a friend of a friend.  Viola’s breed was unknown to the giver but the consensus at the Guild (whew!  there was consensus!)  is that she must have parentage that is English Leicester and some other kind of heritage too.

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Once of the previously mentioned Guildies of extreme spinning skill washed this fleece for me, which was such a generous and kind thing.  It is beautifully clean and did not take me hours of backbreaking effort.  She has a simpler method than the one I use, but I lack the equipment to do it.  I carded up batts for the medium and bulky skeins and weighed out sections of the batts for each skein–2 ply for the medium skein and three ply for the bulky one.

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Then I lashed on some locks and combed top for the fine skein.  I am still pretty inexperienced at combing, but I am definitely improving, and top is a gorgeous preparation to spin.  I have to say, the long locks on this fleece and the not-so-fine character of the fleece makes preparation a breeze.

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No blood was lost!  Two passes of the combs and I had lovely looking fibre ready to draw off into top…

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Through a diz.  I tell you, a person could take up spinning just to have tools with such wonderful names.  It has helped me at Scrabble and Bananagrams no end!  I do not bother with the list of two letter words with no discernible meanings but I pull out spinning and dyeing terms whenever possible.  I pre-drafted the batts in their weighed-out sections and had a day of spinning and a second day when I did all the plying.  It was quite a contrast to the last time I entered this category, when I seem to remember I was spinning for months.  Perhaps I didn’t weigh out just enough for the entries.  I seem to recall spinning an entire bobbin of each single last time, which is a significant amount of spinning.

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Well, three months have passed since I was carding and combing Viola’s fleece for those ‘spinning perfection’ entries.  There they are on the left.  Then there is a skein of merino with dyed silkworm cocoons gifted to me by a friend (novelty category).  Then an entire issue of The Guardian cut into strips and spun slowly on my wheel (novelty category).  That’s right, since you’re asking, without glue.  Then two skeins of Viola’s fleece which I’ll tell you more about in posts to come.  Those who have been around a while will recognise some of those colours. Finally, two skeins of Malcolm the Corriedale dyed and spun a while back.  These sets of two skeins are my two dyeing and spinning category entries.  The entire pile of woolly goodness is sitting on top of a quilt I am entering.

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I finished this a little while ago and it has a set of blocks on the front, each with a print of a species of Eucalypt, with its name embroidered in eucalyptus dyed silk thread.  The back is a patchwork of pieces of eucalyptus-dyed cottons.  It is machine quilted over an old flannelette sheet well past its heyday and ripe for a new life out of sight.

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So–my entries are finished.  They have their little labels attached.  The quilt has a hanging sleeve hand sewn onto it!  Most of the entries have the additional things required (accounts of dyes and breeds, samples of fibres) and a few do not. I’m just not well enough organised, and in the end decided to submit the skeins I want to show and not worry about their compliance with rules.  I won’t be crushed if they don’t get a ribbon because I didn’t do all that was required.  All I have to do now is take them in on the right day, and all should be well!

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It isn’t a really wonderful example of quilting.  I’m quite dedicated to patchwork and loved the dyeing and stitching, but I am less enthusiastic about quilting.  Perhaps that is yet to grow on me!  This quilt marked the beginning of embroidery growing on me for the first time since chiildhood, so it’s possible.  I decided to enter partly to honour the admiration of a friend who thinks this is the best quilt ever. And partly just to speak back a little to all the floral frou-frou that dominates quilting exhibits I have seen with a little leafy goodness.  And there you have my entries.  Local wool, mostly local dyestuffs, local spinning and stitching–with some cotton and silk and indigo and osage orange from far away, grown and processed and woven by the hands of other people unknown to me.  Showtime!

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Filed under Fibre preparation, Leaf prints, Natural dyeing, Sewing, Spinning

Beloved tree banners

I am a tree lover.  If you’ve been visiting for long, you already know this about me. This week these banners went out into the world.  Framed by eco-prints and embroidered with eucalyptus dyed silk thread… perfect for the job, I think.

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The first went to a river red gum we managed to save during railway works in the neighbourhood.

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It is immense.

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But the second banner went to a much larger tree.  This one has been here since the Kaurna people were the only people living here: since before colonisation.  It is now in Wilberforce Walk, and it is threatened by flood mitigation works which will widen Brownhill Creek, in which it stands.  It has a massive trunk.

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Friends and neighbours have been at work on making sure this tree stays safe.  We have been writing letters and submissions. We have been lobbying.  One ingenious friend has commissioned a beautiful painting of this tree by local artist Laura Wills which he is planning to give to Council.  Other ingenious friends had a famous eucalypt specialist come and examine the tree to assess its age and state of health and write a report.

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This banner has been requested several times by various other people who love this tree, and now it is in place.  I don’t think it can hurt for passersby, or the Council’s arborist, or whomever might be charged with deciding how to treat this tree, to know that it is beloved.  It has been wonderful to meet with so many people who love this tree after years of visiting it and treasuring it myself.  Along with the other tree lovers: in this case, friends, neighbours, insects, honeyeaters, sulphur crested cockatoos, bees and tawny frogmouths.

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Filed under Craftivism, Natural dyeing, Neighbourhood pleasures, Sewing

Blankets Re-imagined

My dear friends were the ones paying close enough attention to realise that the launch of Blankets Re-Imagined was imminent. They also were the ones with the genius and generosity to organise a wonderful supper that must have made us the envy of most of the people who were there!  So last Friday on a chilly night after a long working week we ventured out into the hills to Lobethal. The exhibition (of over 40 artists and more than 100 works) was held in the shell of the once great Onkaparinga Woollen Mills, still a very impressive building.

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This is, indeed, a building in which many blankets were made and of course, there were many blankets on display.

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Some were being worn.  Others adorned walls and had been turned into all manner of art works, ranging from political commentary through multiple forms and techniques and into sheer whimsy. It was night, and indoors.  I can’t say the lighting was ideal for photography, even though I now have more understanding of white balance, due to another friend’s kindness and expertise.  So please bear with me on colour variations…

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India Flint’s work is substantial in every way: created from segments of eco dyed blanket and nailed to a massive piece of kauri with nails that would make my father proud.  (He is the kind of man who would never use one nail if four nails could do the job.)  The colours and leafy shapes are glorious, and the trails of eucalyptus dyed stitching form an understated uniting tracery that seems to me to be a signature of India’s.

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The variety of colour and leaf form was just lovely.

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There were a whole series of blankets from this mill in awesomely seventies oranges (lime greens and purples too).  I believe we have one in our very own home.  I love the way this section references that orange but does something that is absolutely not tartanesque with it.

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Here I am blending in to the artwork perfectly well in an India Flint original!  This effect gave rise to numerous comments from passersby as well as friends, and there were a few strangers who needed to feel my sleeve.  I completely understand the urge!

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It was a delight to see Isobel McGarry and admire her contribution even though I failed completely to capture its colours.  Her work, ‘Oppenheimer’s Suns’ carries her trademark close stitching and conveys her grieving for all war has cost humanity and the environment. The launch happened close to Hiroshima Day and Nagasaki Day–and therefore spoke to things that had been on my mind a good deal.

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But as always her work also conveys her longing for peace and healing…

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This wonderful work by Sandy Elverd was on display…   she has long used blanketing as a medium to fabulous effect.

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Indigo Eli contributed a piece commenting on the Australian government’s recent Border Protection Act and its silencing of criticism of the treatment of asylum seekers.

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There was plenty of whimsy… these by Victoria Pitcher.

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This echidna by Lindi Harris and Lisa Friebe.

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Then there was the blanket cubby.

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Unfortunately I did not record the name of the artist.

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There were also reminders of the machinery on which so much wool was processed into fabric.

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And there was the building itself to admire.

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Adorned for the event rather wonderfully.

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Such a wonderful evening. So much to think about and wonder over, admire and revel in. And such glorious company to do it in.

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Filed under Leaf prints, Natural dyeing, Sewing

A little more embroidery

My needle and I moved on to another little indigo dyed bag that arrived at our house as a printed calico bag full of bath salts. Here it is on a table in a coffee shop, in progress.

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I love the way the silk thread has a little sheen over the matte background of the calico.

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This one is stitched with silk thread dyed with cold processed austral indigo (silvery grey), indigo, eucalyptus cinerea exhaust and plum pine.

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I like these subtle colours, even though some of them felt really disappointing when first they emerged from the dye. They work beautifully in this context, I think.  Another lesson in life from the dye pot!

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Filed under Natural dyeing, Sewing

Beautification through embroidery

Somehow I have fallen down another rabbit hole… I seem to be stitching.  A lot.  Still with the project of making what is merely functional, more beautiful.  I started out with three calico drawstring bags that had held bath salts and soap nuts.  I had a spectacular dyeing fail using eucalyptus.  Go figure.  Certainly not an improvement!

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I dipped them in the indigo vat a few times, a while back.  Better.

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Then one day I suddenly saw what to do.  I started and then kept going.  Here I am with it in progress on my lap on the bus to work.

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Threads dyed with madder, grevillea robusta, and eucalyptus.

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It’s so much better!

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Last night it went home with a friend.  It is going to become home for a deck of tarot cards.  And I have started on the others…

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Filed under Natural dyeing, Sewing

Students of Sustainability

The national Students of Sustainability conference is in our own city this year, and I was asked to present. I did a few things, and one of them was a workshop on craft.  Once I started putting together what I thought I might take, my imagination went wild, as it so often does.  pretty soon I had made up a stack of mending kits.  So many other women’s haberdashery has come my way in the last decade or two, and I have been such an op shopping pack rat–that I have surplus.  Tins from my mother-out-law.  Tins from gifts.  Boxes from lovely stationery.  My friend’s Mum’s huge collection of machine sewing thread.  Needles from my grandma.  Buttons from everywhere including three generations of my own family.  When I went looking for the embroidery thread of my childhood, I found there wasn’t much of it, but there was a motherlode of darning wool and leather samples, all in a big tin with a little embroidery equipment and some English piecing left over from a quilt I began in primary school, finished as an adult and gave away the night I finished it–replete with 900, 3 cm squares of treasured fabrics gifted by my mother and grandmother for my fidgety little fingers to work on.

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Hopefully these kits will find happy homes with environmental activists whose stashes are not quite as replete as my own–they all went to new homes at the end of the workshop.  I took a couple of beanies to give away too.  Then I ironed some bunting that spent months in the street and came down when council decided on a permapine barrier to stop cars killing the plantings by the tram line (happiness!).  It’s a lesson in colourfastness (in which indigo dyeing beats commercial black dye and dress and quilt fabrics hands down and a second hand sheet fares very well).   The attendees had their own ideas about what bunting might be useful for, some of it became patches, flags, a bandanna, a bag and interfacing.

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Here I am packed and ready to go.  After this I added very warm clothing, and a big thermos of ginger tea with lime leaves and other good ingredients.  The basket on the left was apparently made by my Mum’s mother.  I borrowed it in Mum’s absence, carrying home fruit, veg and flowers when they were away, and it feels like good company somehow.  So I have both grandmas coming with me, dear as they both were. Along came the bundle book in case people wanted to know about the eco dyed fabrics we might stitch on (they sure did!  How did you do that?  Was asked and answered over and over again as I had leaf-printed fabrics for people to use and enjoy).  People also appreciated the very inspiring Little Book of Craftivism2015-07-11 16.04.39

This enthusiastic participant is modelling one of my beanies as embellished by his Mum.  ‘Lock the gate’ is a campaign against fracking in farming land.

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A few people learned how to sew for the very first time.

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There were some unique pouches and bags… people had some needed gentle time in their big week.  A few folk had a nap in the corner at some stage (camping out in the high wind and heavy rain the previous night must have been pretty tough).

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I was blessed with the support and company of a friend who is a fabulous maker and activist.  She came along as support crew and brought her many fine qualities to the event. And her mending, too!

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Filed under Craftivism, Leaf prints, Natural dyeing, Sewing

Mending

There has been less mending this winter because after the attack of the m*ths last year, stringent measures have been taken round here. M*th proof storage and pheromone sticky traps, and a cleaning programme that gets into the corners.  This is the first mend I’ve needed to make to a woollen undergarment this season, and this garment is years old and has seen a lot of wear.  It’s underwear, so I decided to trial an external patch, as well as an internal patch.  The internal patch was almost invisible from the outside. Here’s the outside view of the external patch:

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Silkymerino eucalyptus-print patch sewn on with eucalyptus dyed silk thread… and here is the inside–interior patch on the left and exterior patch on the right.

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I also have a favourite T shirt.  It’s a fine bamboo shirt with a design by the wonderful Nikki McClure. It has worn some small holes in front.  In the region of the belly button (or perhaps the belt buckle), to be exact!  Hence the trial of internal and external patching.  Conclusion: a feature external patch in this location… will not be flattering when the garment is on, though it could look great if it wasn’t actually on me!  The patched place is at the centre bottom of this image, looking slightly puckered.

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Here is the inside view–silkymerino stitched with madder dyed cotton/silk thread.  The little holes show red and so do all the tiny stitches… so there is a little speckled area on the front of the shirt.  In the spirit of the visible mending programme, this patch is visible… but not too visible!  And I personally will enjoy the internal view.

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And… some rough and ready patching on my gardening jeans has also been needed.  The second knee finally gave way.

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And when I went to mend the knee, one of the back pockets pulled away from the seat.  Better than this happening while I’m out on the street!  I decided against anything fancy because there isn’t much left in the way of strong fabric in these jeans any more–the hem has worn right through, the belt loops are pulling away from the waistband, and the next pair in the queue are more than ready for a permanent move to gardening wear.  In the meantime, some reinforcement on the inside and some machine darning over the most threadbare section will keep them going awhile longer…

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Filed under Sewing

I’m just a girl who can’t say no to knitting slippers

It is that time of year again here in Australia, when slippers are called for.  Just when I think I can’t bear to ever knit another one, I whip a few out.  I had a virus that made me so stupid I had a couple of days off work doing mindless knitting and watching appalling daytime TV.  That helped.  And, completely charming stories of people’s slipper love come my way and make me weaken.

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The red pair are for a friend who is struggling with cuts to public sector services in her workplace.  It breaks my heart to see people who want to contribute to making things better for people whose lives are very hard indeed… and who have committed their skills and passion to this task… being treated so badly.  By sheer happy coincidence, I got these to her in the week of her birthday.  I am so glad she got born and I got to know her!

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Her last pair of slippers had been worn to holes and shreds, and hopefully the sheep hide soles will help this pair go the distance.  yes, this is the left over local sheep hide in the previous post.  The green pair have gone to a wonderful organic gardener who runs a farm, and a pale blue pair that didn’t make it into the sunshine to have their photo taken have gone to her beloved co-farmer.  The two of them do an amazing job.  I handed these two pairs over at the farmer’s market where they have a stall, and right back at me came mandarins, pak tsoi, silverbeet (chard) and such. They are so generous!

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A very discouraged friend gave me a sleeveless vest a while back.  She had already knit it twice and I perhaps also partially felted it in an effort to get fit and finally given up in frustration.  The wool is handspun and hand dyed.  In all likelihood, by one of my Guild friends.  I wanted to honour all the work that went into this wool, now a little past its prime.  I tell you what, when you unravel a garment you learn a lot about the design and about the knitting skills of the maker.  My friend has a very thorough and diligent way of darning in ends!  I feel so sad that her vest didn’t work out after so much effort.  I don’t think I have developed the patience to knit the same garment twice.  Evidently, knitting the same slipper pattern dozens of times is different…

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Eventually I got the vest apart and decided I really did have to wash the wool to unwrinkle it a bit.  These photos are the ‘after’ photos.  And now, all that wool is a pair of slippers for a young father, teacher and farmer, whose sheep hide is going to be sewn onto the soles. I have one more pair on my mental queue and needles and then I can make a pair for the mother, community development worker and farmer side of their partnership… so the season of slipper knitting isn’t over yet.  I made slippers for both parties for their wedding, and I had in mind to make them fresh pairs when their second child came along recently. But my intentions didn’t get turned into actions very quickly… best keep knitting!

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Filed under Knitting, Sewing

A patch of potato sacks

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I scored more potato sacks from the organic food co-op we belong to.  It has been running for many years, mostly because of the hard work of a few trusty and amazing people–and one of my friends in particular.

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I turned these into fully lined bags.  The printing isn’t designed to last but I like to honour the humble hessian sack, while there are still some of them left to honour.

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I am planning for these to go back to the co-op where other members might like them.

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Needless to say lining them brought on a little bag breakout.  I managed to finish one more sheet offcut collection! And provide yet further evidence that there are some things about my camera I don’t understand after all this time.

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In Situ: Murray Bridge Regional Gallery

Last week a carload of us made our way to Murray Bridge to see the opening of in situ and Ngarrindjeri Expressions at the Murray Bridge Regional Gallery, where both exhibitions will be open from May 22 to July 19 2015.

The night’s events began with a series of dances and songs by Uncle Major Sumner and some young Ngarrindjeri dancers.  It was a great opening for two exhibitions so powerfully about land and place.  Ngarrindjeri Expressions brings together works by Damien Shen and portraits by local Ngarrindjeri people who came to community workshops to learn Damien’s drawing process.  The exhibition also includes lithographs and photographs by Damien Shen and a video of Damien drawing his uncle (in both the literal and Indigenous sense) Major Sumner–25 hours of drawing condensed into 15 minutes of video, which had many people transfixed.  I didn’t have permission to photograph Ngarrindjeri Expressions–but I was kindly granted permission to photograph in situ.

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Behind the dancers and speakers hung two large works that drew my eye more and more as the night wore on. This is Looking Up/Looking Down by Dorothy Caldwell (Hastings, Canada).  It brought to mind a landscape seen from above, in which massive features of the landscape below appear as much smaller shapes and patches of colour.

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Indoor lighting doesn’t suit my skills or camera–so these pictures do not do justice to the colours of the originals.  But the smaller details in this work in contrasting colours have been stitched in ways that reminded some of us of rain and others of the stalks/trunks of plants in the wind.

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This patch had me in mind of a dam receding in the face of drought. You can see more of Dorothy’s work and read about her approach at her web site here.

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The Story Blanket by Imbi Davidson (North East Coast, New South Wales) is indeed based on a blanket which has been embellished, patched and augmented over time.  The eco-prints of leaves on the left and right panels managed to evoke footprints travelling through sand for me, despite clearly being leaf prints.  The central panel had been stitched with concentric semi circles that are not obvious in this photo–these and the panels of buttons on the mid and lower right side brought to mind some of the familiar images of some styles of Indigenous art, without appropriating them.  I loved the contrasts and the sense of this piece building up layer by layer, as stories often do. There is more of Imbi’s work and process at her www site here.

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Roz Hawker (Bunya, Queensland) contributed Holding Close.  You can follow the link to much better images and her own account of these works.

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This wonderfully embellished, subtly dyed dress is an ode, or perhaps a love letter, to her grandmothers.  I loved the whimsical plants sending tendrils up from the cuffs, blooming upward from the hem…

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and even subtly travelling up the back of the dress.  The dress hung beside a collection of smaller works in silver and silk… a little gathering of treasures which reminded me of nothing so much as the small collection of found objects (mostly from nature) that a child–or a grownup in my case–might bring home from a holiday in a special place.  Conjuring points for memory and wonder.

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India Flint (Mount Pleasant, South Australia) contributed sheep fold: a semicircle of bundles which look like stones… or like bundles tied around rocks: in either case, the mystery of what is inside is maintained by the outside of the stone/bundle.

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These bundles are full of all the wonderful diversity that rocks have–folds, crinkles, smoothnesses, varied and sometimes mottled colours.  But they did smell rather more wonderful than your average stone.

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On the wall, inside what I pictured as the wall of the sheep fold, hung an empty wire box, its base pointing out toward the room.  As a receptacle for feed might, perhaps.

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Collecting Cards is also by Dorothy Caldwell.  This really is a group of cards with images of textiles and stitching on them, for the most part.

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I loved looking at these and wondering over their arrangement and their subtle colours and textures.

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This exquisite, heavily stitched work is Ten Thousand Leaves, by Isobel McGarry (Adelaide, South Australia).

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Leaves have been eco-printed onto the silk as well as appliqued onto it. Isobel was kind enough to answer a lot of questions about this piece–since she was there for the opening.

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The back of the work was rather plainer–eco-printed silk edged with words in English and (I am guessing) Japanese.

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This work is a meditation on peace, with the stitched crosses symbolising those who have died in war.

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The imagery of mending is available here, but the overall effect of this stitching is quite different–or perhaps an homage to the beauty as well as the necessity of mending, its capacity to build up a whole composed of so many tiny actions and scraps and make it gloriously whole without hiding the need for repair or the fact of many pieces having been brought together to create a new, entire fabric.

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365 days at Tickleberry Flats (Desiree Fitzgibbon, Dodges Ferry, Tasmania) held a year in a specific place in 356 small vessels, each with red lines traced around it.  Intriguing and beautiful.

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John Parkes’ Sampler (Dead Two Years Now) remembers his father in a moving sampler constructed from two of his father’s shirts.

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Raw edges called to mind for me the raw emotions grief can provoke as well as the fragility of memories referenced in the stitched words themselves.

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Sandra Brownlee (Dartmouth, Nova Scotia) contributed Untitled artist book, a work that made me long to pick up and touch.  The stitched binding exposed at the base of the book is intricate and rather wonderful.  Sandra’s workshops on tactile notebooks, clearly based in her own practice, are famous–two accounts with images here and here.

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Judy Keylock (Lud Valley, New Zealand) contributed a work of layers and shadows, which was all the more lovely for the way it floated gently in the small movements of air as people passed by or looked at it.

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Although this work is called ‘Dirt’, I found it rather ethereal. (I had to laugh when I found exactly this word in Judy’s artist’s statement).

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Subtle colours and subtle shadows flow through it.

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And perhaps there is a message here about the wonders of dirt, which is, after all, not only the place we might all eventually go–but also the place from which everything emerges.  You can see more of Judy’s work (in this case, with schoolchildren) here.

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At first sighting, Sandra Brownlee’s Nighdress with text seemed austere.  It appears handwoven and plain.

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But on closer examination, proves to be a canvas for words which can only just be made out on closer inspection, winding their way across the interior surface and any body that we might imagine wearing it.

Of course… there was so much more!  I know that many readers will not be able to get to Murray bridge, but India Flint has created an online exhibition of these pieces.  How glorious to have the work of artists from such far-flung places brought together locally… and to have the chance to be there and celebrate its opening!  We were the last to leave, and wandered out into the night for some of us to tell stories and others to snooze as we headed back to Adelaide…

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Filed under Leaf prints, Natural dyeing, Sewing