Tag Archives: indigo

Indigo fructose vat

I am determined to learn to use Michel Garcia’s fructose indigo vat rather than the very simple but clearly toxic and stinky hydrosulphite vat. I am also on a mission to create handspun, plant dyed yarns for colourwork, and I have a pattern in mind which requires some greens.  Also a plan about sock yarn in which this previously undyed, now (osage orange yellow) skein of BFL/silk becomes a variegated green.

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I prepared the vat and waited for a bronze sheen and yellow-green liquid below as signs reduction (the removal of oxygen from the vat) had been achieved.  I have a Ph meter to ensure the Ph is within range.

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I had success with reducing the vat but a lot of difficulty in getting the Ph into a range suitable for wool.  In the end, I decided to make the most of it and dipped my ugly cotton bags several times.

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In all I dipped them three times and they are now an old denim colour which is a decided improvement.

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Once I had managed the Ph, next came fleece from Viola, previously dyed in coreopsis or osage orange.

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Finally, in went the gloriously yellow sock yarn.  That yellow was so awesome I was tempted to leave it as it stood.  But I was looking for yellows and various shades of green, and here they are, ready for the next stage of my cunning plan….

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Drawstring project bags

These are the bags that really started the party.  Fully lined drawstring project bags.

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Recycled suit linen with E Scoparia print; linen with an Australian designed print; cotton printed with prunus leaves and maple leaves.

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Indigo prints from the indigo dyeing day last year… paler prints went into the linings.

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While I was on indigo prints I used up the last of my own indigo dyed fabrics making this.  And finally, a gratuitous photo of a bee enjoying a street tree in flower taken on my way to a lunch meeting.  Glorious!

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Fibre preparation

There has been a breakout of fibre preparation.  I got to the end of all my carded fibre.  So I started going through what I had washed and otherwise ready to spin.  Grey corriedale dyed with Eucalyptus Nicholii: before…

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…after.

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Polwarth dyed with indigo.  Apparently overlooked last time I was carding…

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Here it is ready to spin.  Just one random batt.

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Then there was some angora (rabbit)–just a handful.  A Guild member was gifted this at the Royal Show last year by a rabbit breeder and since she couldn’t spin, I offered to dye it for spin it for her.  I dyed it prior to the workshop I ran along with a huge batch of fibres for the workshop participants.

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It was reeeeally short, and there was not very much.  So I carded it into some natural white polwarth.  Tweedy angora flecks?

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I managed to spin it into a singles before I went to Guild, then plied it up for her on the night.  Here’s a rough and ready photo.  She was delighted.  She is a tapestry weaver, so I feel sure this will find its way into a tapestry in due course!

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New year’s crafty wrap up

I realise that new year passed a while back… but there are a few things to report.  I did some serious plying on my January holidays–

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This is the indigo dyed grey crossbred fleece you might remember.

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Surprisingly hard to photograph, but I like it very much.

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I also plied two immense hanks of black alpaca yarn.  The fleece was a gift from a community with lawnmowing sheep and alpacas.  I am thinking I will check whether any of the resident knitters would like this yarn.  It is deep black and happily… now virtually free of scurf.  Spinning is such an educational pursuit!  I had not encountered animal dandruff before, but my online research reassured me it was just one more of the things to pull and shake out and nothing to be afraid of… 2015-01-14 15.19.11

Last year’s calendars have been turned into envelopes, as they so often are.   This lovely piece of whimsy covered in Indigenous animals and detail of lunar cycles is by now-local artist Lucy Everitt. She also has delectable cards and other items for sale, and a beautiful blog. Her 2015 lunar calendar is available here.

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This calendar, all about Japanese art.

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Did I mention the shopping trolley?  My beloved and one of our friends restored the metal parts of this vintage item to their former glory.

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I had the job of taking the ripped, torn and stained vinyl cover (yellow, green and white) and making a new one from red vinyl.  It didn’t convert me to vinyl at all!

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And then there were the late 2014 slippers.  Two different models in blue alpaca yarns. 2015-01-17 08.39.54

Apparently the procession of slippers will never end, as I have long suspected might be the case… 2015-01-17 08.39.34

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The after party: indigo exhaust

The indigo vats got another look with a view to exhausting them a couple of days after the recent big event.  I prepared a little more fabric (ah, holidays).

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The fructose vat seemed in order but I thought it might be exhausted.

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The first dip confirmed this. Well, we’ve been discussing this in the comments… but this was the conclusion I drew on the day.  The fabric was very pale even when wet.

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Reheating and adjusting Ph and adding more colour run remover produced spectacular results on the colour run remover vats.

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I adjusted the Ph for one vat to suit cellulose fibres and re-dipped my calico samples several times.

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Happy results!

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The other I adjusted to suit wool.  In with some pale, spotted polwarth (cream and tan).

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During…

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After…

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There still seemed to be colour left in the vat so I entered a lot of grey crossbred fleece.  The last, overlooked bag of Macchiato the Mongrel.  I think he was named a mongrel partly because, you know, crossbred.  And partly because he ate the neighbour’s pea crop and had to be found a new home.  Thus capturing both meanings of this word in Australia.

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I’ve been spinning the deep blue result with delight since.  This is quite a coarse fleece, but I have just loved spinning every bit of it, and one of Macchiato’s humans brought me another fleece a while back… so once I’ve washed it, I can go again with all that pleasure.  Most of the first fleece went to a friend of my beloved’s who wanted to knit a jumper from it.  I don’t know whether she ever did, though!

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Summer Indigo 3: Happy endings and learnings

One of the fun things about doing a vat dye is watching the transformation through its many stages.  With indigo, even more so–because of the magical qualities of the dye–yellow while in solution in the vat but turning blue as soon as the fibre enters the air and oxygen reaches it, paired with the process involving multiple dips to build up depth of shade. Given my friend’s generosity with the camera, here are a few efforts to follow specific items through the process.

Cotton t-shirt with rubber band and loom band resist: before…

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After…

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Lacy shirt rolled around a bottle and tied:

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Pair of pants wrapped around a piece of garden hose and tied:

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Screws tied into calico:

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Really tightly tied!

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There was a spectacular effect when they were untied–but it was temporary–the binding was so tight that air hadn’t reached the inside pleats despite rinsing and time on the line!

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Marbles and rubber bands in a yellow t shirt:

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So, given that all indigo vats are going to be learning experiences for me, possibly for the rest of my life… what did I notice and what did I learn?  Preparation of the fructose vat a day earlier worked well and this experience gave me confidence to try this process again and keep experimenting.

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This time, I tried to hold onto what I learned from the last one: to trust my judgment about when to stop.  I am a beginner at this process.  But, limited as it is, my judgment is what I currently have, and judgment is there to be developed.  In my experience as a teacher, judgment is one of the most difficult, yet most important, things to acquire–but at least in dyeing the repercussions of poor judgment are more limited than in an operating theatre or a court!  This time, no evidence of crocking.

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Some things were pale blue even after several dips. All of the calico items that went into the fructose vat, for instance.  I like the colour, but had not expected this.  I noticed that most of the items that only went into the fructose vat remained pale shades.  Some went from there to the colour run remover process when the fructose vat needed a rest–they were deeper.

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This might have been because the natural indigo in the fructose vat gave a different outcome to the synthetic indigo in the colour run remover vats.  It might have been due to the difference in processes or some failure of my understanding of the fructose process resulting in the oxygen not being sufficiently removed from the vat–though the colour of the vat was good.  It now occurs to me that I could have tested this by adding hydrosulphite to the exhaust of the fructose vat when I really couldn’t get much colour from it two days later. Next time?

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It might have meant the calico had a treatment that resisted dyeing–but other fabrics also came out pale.  We did dye a LOT of materials–and perhaps the fructose vat ran low on indigo.  It was in a bigger container so may have received more fabric (and more oxygen). But I had an exhaust vat extravaganza two days later and the colour run remover vats still gave colour–one in particular dyed quite a quantity of wool (after adjustment of the Ph to a level more suitable for protein fibres).

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Mmm… the indigo vat curiosity and the love continue… here, the fructose vat gets a cuddle as it warmly rests.

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Summer Indigo 2: Dyeing and the colour run remover vats

When the big day arrived, I had more company than initially expected, with two of our beloved friends staying with us and keen to try indigo, and more coming over.  I have to say, I am intimidated by indigo and it was a holiday project that kept me nervous, planning this indigo dyeing day.  What if it didn’t work out?  What if my ignorance trumped my effort? What if people were bored? What if nothing worked and people’s things were ruined?   The funny thing about fret is that so often it has me focused on myself and my overdeveloped sense of responsibility, and that’s neither sensible, nor fun, nor realistic.  How could I even temporarily forget how wonderful my friends are, in the face of fret?  Everyone who came knew at least some of the other folk and it was such a generous and friendly gathering.  One of my near and dear spent the day taking photographs, so a big thanks to her for those that follow…

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We practised our skills at getting fabric into and out of the dye without adding needless oxygen.

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This time I had a dependable thermometer and used it!

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I also now have a Ph meter.  My dear Dad asked what I wanted for my birthday last year and when I said I wanted a Ph meter but wasn’t sure where to get one he had the answer!!!  You don’t know him, but eBay, my friends, is the answer to a shocking number of things for Dad…

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There wasn’t just the fructose vat.  I have decided that aiming for fermentation and fructose vats is a good long term goal for environmental, health and all kinds of other reasons (pure curiosity, for a start…) and I am growing woad and indigofera australis and Japanese indigo.  However, I have decided that in the interim, colour run remover (mostly sodium hydrosulphite) can rescue failures in my judgment and experience and save wastage of indigo. Since I have some synthetic indigo, I decided to use that in any hydrosulphite vats as it may not be so suitable for fermentation or fructose vats.  There was a lot of fabric when everyone piled in–so I set up two hydrosulphite vats and was delighted not to need to use hydrosulphite to troubleshoot the fructose vat.

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This is something-or-other coming out of one  colour run remover vat quite yellow and beginning to turn blue as the air strikes it.  For these vats, I tried Jenny Dean’s recipe for a colour run remover indigo vat from Wild Colour.  It worked really well and uses washing soda, a much milder alkali than some proposed in other books. It’s also designed for colour run remover and not pure hydrosulphite–and that is what I had.  The fructose vat smells MUCH better!

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I love this process of transformation!  The best item of all for this effect was a pair of pants tied around a length of garden hose.  It was long enough to be yellow at one end, green in the middle and various shades of blue as it slowly emerged from the pot.  My friends had been out researching techniques for resist–so there was stitching, wrapping, bundling, string, thread, rubber bands–and even wax resist, some applied with a biscuit cutter and some freehand.

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With three vats going, and regular monitoring of temperature and Ph and so on, the scene at the clothes line kept changing.

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There were whole-garment makeovers, a purpose made bag, scrap fabrics, an opportunistic bag makeover and the pieces for a pair of pants yet to be made.

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The shades kept changing–wet to dry and dip to dip.

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…Until finally we had done all we could do and time to head to our various homes started to arrive.  Then there was a lot of undoing and exclaiming… and I’ll save that for another post!

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Summer Indigo 1: Preparation of fructose vat and fabrics

I’ve had indigo on my mind (oh, and on my fingers, too!).  I’d been planning a summer indigo dyeing day with a bunch of locals–and there are folk at the Guild who want to try indigo too.  I was keen to try the fructose vat again.  My last experiment with the fructose indigo vat involved some errors on my part… so I decided on treating it (and all other indigo vats) as a learning experience and trying again. I love the idea of being able to run an indigo vat without using sodium hydrosulphite, and I also love the idea of being able to use local fruit and even the leftovers from jam or other uses of fruit to prepare a vat, thus wasting nothing.  This is what the fructose vat has to offer… So, I took up Maiwa’s instruction sheet for Michel Garcia’s fructose vat, and began.  I am just so delighted to have access to Michel Garcia’s wisdom on this subject.  You can see the instructions as a blog post here or a downloadable pdf here.

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I decided to make a starter: beginning with a concentrated solution first and adding it into the larger vat later. The instructions on hydrating the indigo with marbles in a plastic jar are just such genius… so I started there. I also decided to start the day before I planned dyeing with my group of friends–this was one part of the instructions I missed last time.  Soon my strong solution was ready. Freshly mixed:

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And then… the magic started!

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I mixed the starter into the larger vat and then contrived a very sophisticated system for overnight: a very big bucket with a towel and my two woollen dye blankets inside for insulation, then the vat.  Wrapped for the night!

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Next morning… it all looked rather fabulous!

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In the meantime, I’d been plying my needle during various festive gatherings.

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Can you see the half-circles in the half-light?

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I read Vivien Prideaux’s A Handbook of Indigo Dyeing and tried out some of her ideas in a rather less precise manner than she proposes.  Essentialy, I decided that anything I could prepare to dye in advance was a bonus and precision was the least of my concerns.  her ideas were very helpful.

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I had so much calico from my most recent inheritance I really just stitched whenever I could find time and interest…

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And piled up a little stack of fabric in preparation.

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Ply time!

A while back I had used almost every bobbin I own, each with a different colour of thread on it.

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Over time there were even more bobbins of singles than this pictures shows…  finally there has been a season of plying, skeining and washing, and now I have this pile instead.

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Logwood purples, purple-greys and purple-browns, a cochineal pink (and a cochineal-logwood exhaust), three indigo blues, two madder exhaust-oranges, and a coreopsis exhaust yellow.  I didn’t take good enough notes of the fibres–some are on merino roving (the madder), some on polwarth, some on grey corriedale. Maybe there is a little of Malcolm the Corriedale in there too!

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And there has been even more bee swarm action in the neighbourhood.  These bees have taken up residence on a rainwater tank, with some support from a ladder! And… I am so over tending the silkworms 🙂

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Socks for active toes

Last weekend I finished these socks–eucalyptus-dyed patonyle with a subtle indigo blue stripe at the cuff (I mention its subtlety since it is invisible in the image above).  We went to visit the intended recipient yesterday and I could wait no longer for the right moment to take a picture in daylight.

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There was less than a metre of yarn left when I finished these.  I handed them over and they were whipped onto enthusiastic feet in no time at all.  This was he closest to a still image I was likely to get.

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Pretty soon they were out into the chook yard with someone else’s shoes over them…

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Happily these fast-growing feet are the same size as those of an adult in the family–so in case they are outgrown they will still be of use.

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Then, up into the mandarin tree in weatherproof pants because of impending rain..

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And pretty soon my pocket full of socks had become a pocket full of flowers and beautiful leaves and we were heading home after some guitar playing, hot chocolate (or carob or dandelion, depending), chat and plans for a future shared meal and off into the evening with enough mandarins for marmalade and more.  Friends are such wonder and delight!

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