Tag Archives: silk thread

Summer festival of mending 3

I have a rather lovely woollen blanket that came to me from a op shop (thrift shop) years ago.  It came with a lot of little holes that haven’t stopped it being a great warm blanket.

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I have had it in mind to mend them or embellish them for years.  This time I have actually done a little mending.

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I even blanket stitched some of the unravelled edges.

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Well.  Someone enjoys it!  She is a visitor who spent some weeks with us but has now been on a road trip to her new home in Tasmania with her usual people.

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It did seem funny to be mending a woollen blanket when we are verging on summer… I give you a local eucalypt in full bloom!

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Filed under Eucalypts, Sewing

Spring Sewing Circle 2

This time, a little more about dyes and dyeing at the Spring Sewing Circle.  In the main street of Mansfield, there was a great two colour display of pansies.  I am not sure what the passersby made of me deadheading the purple pansies… I suspect no one noticed from their car. I took them along to the day’s sewing circle with me after they had spent a night in the freezer and this produced an impromptu class in dye chemistry from India.

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Once a selection from the three kinds of water available had been made, I tucked the remainder of the blooms into some raw silk (the pocket bag from an op shop suit).

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Into a clean yoghurt tub they went with some silk thread.

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The colour got bluer…

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Overnight it became turquoise.

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It came home in my bags, and surprise!  The water at home really does have the capacity to create greens.   My last experience of this was not an accident or a one off. Thread that had been quite blue and fabric that had been purple and blue went green immediately on rinsing.  I’m not complaining–these are great colours!

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There were many incidental marvellings at the beauty of plants and fabrics…

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I had a lesson in mordants I hadn’t used before, and some help with my issues with milk.  Very exciting.  Sure to lead to all manner of future experiments.

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I had an unexpected visit to a laundrette (laundromat?) on the day I left home, and found one just doors from a rather good op shop that benefits Medecins Sans Frontieres.  I spent the time my quilt was washing there and scored a long sleeved t shirt, which was the subject of these experiments.  Greens… oranges… iron…

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Using this technique for all-over colour and pattern is something I notice others doing to great effect but often don’t attempt.  I’ve realised that when buying fabric I tend to plain colours or picture prints, and evidently I have carried this over into my own dyeing. Workshops are for learning so I tried stepping away from my habits a bit.  It’s interesting to observe how entrenched some of my habits are.

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The back of the t shirt.  These last two photos show the garment laundered and dry.

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For those who can’t resist the idea of pictures of food… picture this as afternoon tea!  Extraordinary.  India turns out to have the kind of fine cooking skills capable of making everything delectable.  She also has the capacity to turn a few ingredients that might be mere sustenance in other hands (I am not knocking sustenance) into something irresistibly delicious.  Macaroni and cheese much better than a restaurant meal.  Just saying.  We have an onion, garlic and dairy free household and India was kind enough to load me up with garlic and butter and other fabulous things we can’t share at home for the duration.  Such happy pleasures for me and such generosity and skill from her.

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Filed under Dye Plants, Leaf prints, Natural dyeing

Summer festival of mending 1

Since the weather began to turn, it has felt as though every second piece of clothing I want to wear requires mending.  One of the good things about having this place set up for sewing is that I can mend seams that have come apart while the iron is warming up, and put a stitch here or a stitch there, replace a vanished button or stitch down a hook or eye very quickly and easily.  However, some of my favourite things require quite a bit more attention.  I warmed up on a calico bag that turned out to have unfinished seams fraying on the inside.  How many years has this been kicking around?  I have no idea, and my beloved who presumably brought it into our mutual stash didn’t either.  Brisbane community radio’s little image of radio  lovin’ will be with us for some more years yet.

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Then there is the dingo flourbag shirt, made from Fremantle flour mill flourbags that once had red dingoes printed on them.  It took some effort to track down my notes–I made this shirt in 2004 from bags a friend gave me when she left for the US for some years of international peace activism and adventure.  So long ago!  Before I learned to spin.  Before socks took over my notebooks!  No sign of the red dingo anymore, it washed out years ago.  McCall’s 9579 in M is now a gardening shirt with a collar that has worn right through.  I didn’t really want to turn it because the other side is thin too.  I added a strip of well worn, soft kimono fabric and stitched it down.

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Then there was the matter of the upper fronts.  This is where the flour bag was stitched closed with a large gauge needle and string.  Just the same, it has lasted for many years, but I think not much longer.

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So, I basted down some patches on the inside (this one is part of a threadbare napkin) and started stitching.  Thanks to Jude Hill for this fabulous basting technique.

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And kept stitching with madder and eucalyptus dyed thread.

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Then moved over to the other side and kept going with carrot top thread and eucalyptus and madder dyed thread.  I am rich in lovely thread!  It makes me want to stitch!

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In all honesty, I am not sure I’m finished stitching.  But this is the prettiest mending I have ever done!

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Dyes from the freezer

It was a lovely weekend afternoon–my beloved in the shed with a friend, woodworking, and myself and another friend figuring out a few dyestuffs that had been saved in the freezer. I started out by cleaning up.  I regret to say this is a pattern!  Mohair locks had been steeping in a cold alum bath and it was into the cochineal exhaust with them!

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The remains of two bunches of lilies that had been at my friend’s Mother’s funeral had made it into our freezer for this occasion.  We consulted the dye manuals and found no really obvious approach to take for lilies.  We started conservatively and tried pouring over hot water and steeping.  Nothing magical.

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We put the second bunch into a saucepan and heated it.  Meanwhile, pansies from the parklands, deadheaded when I was support crew for a half marathon back in April or May, finally got their day in the dyepot.

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I tried India Flint’s iceflower method and the dye bath was quite extraordinary.

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Overnight, it deepened further still.

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Following a post on India’s blog, I tried the same method with the leftover Japanese Indigo from last summer, but no blue resulted this time.  These plants felt tired and sad when I harvested them for the next crop to go in, and perhaps they just were!

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After drying, here we have pansy on the left and JI on the right

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Even overnight steeping and being kept warm didn’t produce anything of great moment from those lilies, so I settled on Stuff, Steep and Store-ing them (India Flint’s preservation dyeing method).  I have a jar of daylily blooms that has dyed the silk embroidery thread that is also in it–so I have some confidence in daylilies, but these may be a different kind of lily, and the ratio of dyestuff to silk is different too.

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While I was preserving, I was curious as to what the pansies might produce after that luscious green, so popped them in a jar, and created two others with seed pods from a wattle (Acacia Baileyana) and a small native tree I haven’t been able to summon up a name for as yet.  Now, we watch and wait.

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Carrot top dye

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Having a hank of silk embroidery thread that has already been through a long, cold alum soak has been going to my imagination.  Usually when I think about local dyes I am thinking about eucalypts, but one recent weekend I went to the farmer’s market and when I cut the tops from these treasures, I was struck by the urge to dye with them.

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Into the pot they went without delay.

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Once the water went in, I saw there was a passenger.  Can you see it (her, probably)?

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I did get her out of the pot eventually, and yes, with a long handled wooden spoon.

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Here, a photo of the dyer reflected in her pot, a day later.

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The thread is a greenish shade of yellow.  I have plans already!

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Filed under Natural dyeing, Neighbourhood pleasures

Dyes of antiquity: Opal Cochineal

Some time back, I started a series of posts using dyes that have been gifted to my Guild–or perhaps just abandoned there!  Among the haul of amazing dyes of unknown provenance and considerable age was quite an amount of cochineal.  It had so many forms of packaging and so many forms that I brought together all those with similar labels and packages… and this left small quantities of ‘opal cochineal’ (12 g) and ‘ruby cochineal’ (36 g).  I was absolutely unable to figure out whether these were marketing terms or actual descriptions of the dye qualities of the dried bugs themselves, and finally I decided to find out.

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Step 1: weighing the opal cochineal, consulting the dye books (I went with Rebecca Burgess on this one), and stitching my dried insects into a pouch.  I abhor stockings, so they only come my way from other people’s discards.  I found an antique nylon curtain in the stash and stitched up a double layer bag for the dyestuff to be sewn into.

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Into the dye bath!  When the mount of colour released almost immediately is so stunning, it’s easy to understand why this dye was so sought after (and of course, still is in some quarters).  I added small quantities of silk embroidery thread at different stages in the process, along side several batches of fleece from ‘Viola’, a silvery-grey English Leicester Cross. The thread looks just great.

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I love the colour from the first bath best, but tried to exhaust the dye, with three batches of fibre.  Total dyed weight: a whopping 72g.  Is it ‘opal’ in some special way??? Let me know if you have a view.

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Here is my little nylon sachet after its many steepings and soakings, heatings and coolings.  I had a chat with a friend at the Guild and she’s been cochineal dyeing too.  Maybe all our exhausted insects will go into one final exhaust bath.

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For the love of simple embroidery

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This is the last in my series of three little bags rendered much more lovely through embroidery (and indigo).

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I have been really surprised to find that I can embroider on the bus (and of course, at the bus stop).  Admittedly, there is nothing complex about my embroidery!

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Also, it is easier than I thought to travel with simple embroidery, once you decide that is what you want to do. I have been tucking a reel of thread or two into the bag along with an old dental floss sample (for the cutter), digging my needle into the work, and wrapping the whole lot around the needle.  Then into bag or pocket and we are away.

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It has slowed down the public transport sock knitting somewhat.  But I am back to the regularly scheduled public transport socks now!

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I ended up virtually covering this bag in stitches dyed with indigo, indigofera australis, plum pine, eucalyptus, osage orange and random other local plant experiments.  I realise this is super simple embroidery… but for most of my life I would not have considered doing it, and nor would I have thought it possible I would enjoy it.  I do love the plant dyed threads.  I have enjoyed turning this lowly calico bag from a container for soap nuts into something worth looking at twice.  But I think I have to credit India Flint, Roz Hawker, Jude Hill and Isobel McGarry with persuading me that hand stitching is pleasurable and worthwhile.  Not that they were trying to do this…  But sometimes people rub off on one another, in a good way, even at considerable distance!

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Filed under Natural dyeing, Sewing

On the delights and satisfactions of mending

I like mending.  I find it satisfying to have the skills to be able to render something useable when it is in danger of becoming unusable.  I like being able to give something lovely, or simply beloved, a long life rather than accepting that it will have a short one.

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I learned to use a sewing machine primarily in order to be able to mend things, jeans especially, and I am still doing this by machine as well as by hand.

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I do think it is a privilege to be able to take pleasure in mending.  I have choices about whether to mend or darn.  I can afford to buy new things rather than mend them, and this is a privilege that has not been available to most of humanity for most of history.  It’s privilege most people don’t have now.

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I have noticed that I mend sometimes because the thought of shopping for another something is very unappealing.  I love the idea of shopping for books, but clothing, not so much.  If I like a garment, I like to keep using it.  This is my favourite [black] turtleneck for work.  It sprung a couple of small holes this winter and I have stitched patches on the inside of the arm and the front to prolong its life of keeping me warm and unremarkable in work contexts.

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I hope it might make its way through more winters as a result of this patch and the one below.  These patches were so successful I also mended another skivvy that I like much less and that has descended into gardening and being an under layer.  I don’t even like it much.  But it’s warm and serviceable and somehow that was enough.

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Occasionally I branch out. I restitched a spot on my shoes that was coming undone and threatening the structure of the back of the shoe this winter because I couldn’t see my way to getting it to a shoe repairer now the one nearby has closed down, and I thought I should be able to do it myself.

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We use wheat bags in place of hot water bottles, and they sprang leaks, shedding a few grains of wheat here and there, this winter.  I mended them using a stitch I learned as a girl guide, for mending tents–and then mended a new leak and another one.  That sense of history and skills passed on is part of what I enjoy in mending. Years ago, I decided to be one of the keepers of darning for future generations, and I have taught a lot of people how to darn since my mother taught me.  But in the end, I recovered the wheat bags to see if I could, and of course, I could.  Instead of corduroy I now have a wonderful print on hemp left over from having our chairs re-upholstered and an eco print on pre-loved linen.

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I enjoyed being able to extend the life of these jeans for my beloved, even though I could see it would be temporary–and not a very long temporary at that.  I have tended to the favourite clothes of many of my friends and some of my relatives over time.

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I have been having a thought experiment about what it would mean if I never bought a piece of new clothing ever again.  Some of the mending recently has been driven by this thought experiment lurking in the back of my mind this very dry winter.  In previous times when I asked myself if I could never buy a piece of new clothing again, I was often thinking of it as a challenge to my skills as a maker, and as a way of contributing less to the exploitation of people who make clothes under awful conditions in parts of the world with little protection for workers’ health or industrial rights.

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More and more, I am thinking of it as a response to the need to consume less in order to reduce my carbon footprint in the face of climate change.  When I think of Naomi Klein’s book This Changes Everything: Capitalism vs the Climate, I find myself thinking about the idea that we could keep climate change to a degree which might be consistent with a liveable future for the planet if we returned to the degree of consumption of the 1970s and if everyone was part of the effort.  She points to the mobilisations that supported the war effort (here in Australia, we hear and see most about the mobilisation here and in England) as an example of a time in which the entire society was organised with a relatively common goal and a sense that everyone was part of it and that any privation on the home front should be shared in a relatively just way.  Let us concede before going further, as I am sure Naomi Klein would, that here is nothing just about war and no way of justly sharing the many forms of suffering it creates.  A just sharing of the costs of responding to climate change is utterly crucial–and unlikely to happen without a huge movement of people from everywhere demanding exactly this.

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My mending and darning can’t make the world just and it can’t stop climate change.  But it is a point of meditation about how resources might move from me to other people or vice versa.  It is one of many things I might do that might make a difference, however small.  I intend to keep thinking about it and seeing what difference it makes.  I am already imagining how I might plan ahead enough to avoid suddenly deciding I have to buy something I really could make.  I already notice that I wear different things if I think I might never buy a new pair of jeans again.  And I am asking myself, often, and not only in relation to clothing, do I really need to buy that?  Because–there are a lot of people on the planet who need the resources represented by that purchase more than I do.  And the planet needs a whole lot less consumption going on, and especially by people like me–from the overdeveloped world.  So let’s see how this thought experiment comes along!

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A little more embroidery

My needle and I moved on to another little indigo dyed bag that arrived at our house as a printed calico bag full of bath salts. Here it is on a table in a coffee shop, in progress.

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I love the way the silk thread has a little sheen over the matte background of the calico.

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This one is stitched with silk thread dyed with cold processed austral indigo (silvery grey), indigo, eucalyptus cinerea exhaust and plum pine.

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I like these subtle colours, even though some of them felt really disappointing when first they emerged from the dye. They work beautifully in this context, I think.  Another lesson in life from the dye pot!

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Beautification through embroidery

Somehow I have fallen down another rabbit hole… I seem to be stitching.  A lot.  Still with the project of making what is merely functional, more beautiful.  I started out with three calico drawstring bags that had held bath salts and soap nuts.  I had a spectacular dyeing fail using eucalyptus.  Go figure.  Certainly not an improvement!

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I dipped them in the indigo vat a few times, a while back.  Better.

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Then one day I suddenly saw what to do.  I started and then kept going.  Here I am with it in progress on my lap on the bus to work.

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Threads dyed with madder, grevillea robusta, and eucalyptus.

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It’s so much better!

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Last night it went home with a friend.  It is going to become home for a deck of tarot cards.  And I have started on the others…

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