Category Archives: Sewing

Summer festival of mending 1

Since the weather began to turn, it has felt as though every second piece of clothing I want to wear requires mending.  One of the good things about having this place set up for sewing is that I can mend seams that have come apart while the iron is warming up, and put a stitch here or a stitch there, replace a vanished button or stitch down a hook or eye very quickly and easily.  However, some of my favourite things require quite a bit more attention.  I warmed up on a calico bag that turned out to have unfinished seams fraying on the inside.  How many years has this been kicking around?  I have no idea, and my beloved who presumably brought it into our mutual stash didn’t either.  Brisbane community radio’s little image of radio  lovin’ will be with us for some more years yet.

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Then there is the dingo flourbag shirt, made from Fremantle flour mill flourbags that once had red dingoes printed on them.  It took some effort to track down my notes–I made this shirt in 2004 from bags a friend gave me when she left for the US for some years of international peace activism and adventure.  So long ago!  Before I learned to spin.  Before socks took over my notebooks!  No sign of the red dingo anymore, it washed out years ago.  McCall’s 9579 in M is now a gardening shirt with a collar that has worn right through.  I didn’t really want to turn it because the other side is thin too.  I added a strip of well worn, soft kimono fabric and stitched it down.

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Then there was the matter of the upper fronts.  This is where the flour bag was stitched closed with a large gauge needle and string.  Just the same, it has lasted for many years, but I think not much longer.

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So, I basted down some patches on the inside (this one is part of a threadbare napkin) and started stitching.  Thanks to Jude Hill for this fabulous basting technique.

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And kept stitching with madder and eucalyptus dyed thread.

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Then moved over to the other side and kept going with carrot top thread and eucalyptus and madder dyed thread.  I am rich in lovely thread!  It makes me want to stitch!

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In all honesty, I am not sure I’m finished stitching.  But this is the prettiest mending I have ever done!

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Workwear for a suburban guerilla gardener

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Some months ago I had an idea.  I thought I would embroider my gardening shirt, or one of them. Once I had the idea, I couldn’t let it go.

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I had my beloved’s gift of Japanese indigo dyed thread and it felt so perfect for the job…

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But when I spoke with a friend about it she gently suggested that investing so much time and effort in something on the verge of falling apart might not be wise use.  She is a wise woman and gentleness is her way.

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I began thinking of the fabrics I already had, offcuts of linen, canvas and stout cottons.  It occurred to me that I had a Merchant and Mills pattern (The Top #64) that struck me as pieced, and that called for quite stout fabrics.  I thought over a kind comment here on the blog about using more than one type of fabric as a potential feature rather than a problem (thankyou!).  I started dyeing more fabric.

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And so two sets of offcuts from different generous friends found their way into various dyepots.

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I found that I didn’t have pieces big enough for the pattern pieces anyway–even with front and back each being made up of 4 different pieces of fabric, some parts of this garment were still pieced together from smaller segments.

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And now, here it is.  Embroidered with dye plants of the neighbourhood and the names of plants I have been propagating and planting.

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And a few other phrases of note.  There may be more yet to come!  And now you know how I came by so many scraps that I needed to Make patchwork as I went…

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Filed under Leaf prints, Natural dyeing, Neighbourhood pleasures, Sewing

Scrappy patchwork

In the strange cauldron that is my mind, what Block Party calls ‘wonky log cabin’ and what Slow Stitch calls ‘distorted log cabin’ suddenly became very compelling recently. This was the first one.

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I think the triggering factors were some dyeing that really didn’t work out as I had hoped (as you heard in my last post)–some of which became the foundation for foundation piecing and some of which became strips for the log cabin itself–and cutting out and piecing a garment.

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I don’t know what it is about offcuts that is so distracting to me that they take precedence over the garment or project that they are offcuts from… but this has become a theme.  I think I am beginning to understand that these themes in making are not problematic and don’t require resistance.  They might instead be what makes my work my own and not someone else’s.  I love that this piecing strategy lets me use the odd triangular shapes that I have been struggling to use, and sometimes regretfully trimming off in the creation of squares or rectangles.

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Here, they are perfect.  In fact, they drive the effect in a rather lovely way.

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The other happy feature is that instead of sighing and thinking ‘this is all I have left of that piece of fabric’, I can think…

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‘Here is the start of something wonderful’!  It is also an opportunity to use really well worn fabrics.  In this case, a cotton kimono sent home from my mother-out-law.  She clearly struggles with throwing away treasured threadbare fabrics and so I have been receiving gifts from her more and more regularly as the wish to have her cupboards clear has been growing in her.  High quality fabrics that have seen decades of use.  Damask napkins that have worn right through and which I’ve been using to interface embroidery.  Cottons that make a great foundation fabric but no longer have enough integrity to become a smaller garment or even a lining.  And the occasional treasure that she just can’t figure out how to use.

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I am really not sure what she would make of these blocks!  She loves the eco prints and has an eco print bag I am told she uses a lot.  But it might still be tough to see her cherished kimono become an underlayer!

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Small sewing achievements

I had a triumph with the rolled hem foot for my sewing machine recently.  (I celebrate all victories great and small).  I weakened on my pledge not to buy more fabric when I saw William Morris lawn, and bought 40 cm.  Home made hankies.  I haven’t made any for years.  I remember hand hemming handkerchiefs as a project with my grandmother.  She knew children should be seen and not heard!  But she also liked to share her skills and upgrade ours, and I think she loved the fact that I was keen to learn.  My sisters were less enthusiastic, and better at sport than stitchery.  The other grandmother thought playing in the garden was a fine thing for children, and her garden had chooks and passionfruit in it, always an incentive!

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Another recent project has been dealing with the ironing board.  How did it spring a hole???  No one here is claiming responsibility.

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The new one is a bark cloth I’ve had for years since it came home from an op shop.  I can’t tell whether it was a little curtain or perhaps a cloth for a small table.  It was hemmed in a very parsimonious way, presumably by someone else who thought this was a pretty lovely fabric.

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So easy and satisfying!  Instructions can be found here, and demonstrate that my last cover lasted only a year.  Hopefully this fabric hasn’t been pinned over a window… or I will be making another cover all too soon.

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And finally, all the bits and pieces of upholstery weight fabric that have been slowly coming together into this

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I mean, this… (we have this cat on loan. Most of the time she is delightful, though she has different ideas than I do about what should be done with paper patterns, yarn, thread, fabric and other things that cause us both excitement).

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Have now become yet another bag, of suitable heft and gloriousness.  I have a feeling it won’t be warming my place for long.

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Laptop sleeve

 

It all began with a whirlwind surprise visit from my daughter. She was not especially interested in going out or doing anything special.  The special was spending time together, and I shared her point of view, so we ate from the garden and lurked about.  She asked about this:

 

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It’s part of a pram, or perhaps a baby carrier for a car… abandoned by the tram line some time ago.  I picked it up a week or two ago thinking I could at least put it in our bin.  But then I got to thinking about whether there could be re-use for the straps at least, and recycling of some of the parts (there is quite a bit of aluminium).  Picturing the effort required  led to delay!  However, since we were sitting chatting and the weather had turned warm, out came scissors, screwdrivers, the hacksaw… and soon I had three piles for rubbish, re-use and recycling.  Company and conversation are wonderful.

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Then we had a chat about whether there was anything she would like me to make and she asked for a laptop sleeve.  So some of the polyester batting came back out of the bin!

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She chose some of the upholstery fabric offcuts I still have lying about, and a cotton flanellette covered in little birds that must once have been a cot sheet for the lining.

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There was measuring calculating and and ironing and quilting of the most basic sort and mitre-ing of corners.  Pretty soon, there was a laptop sleeve.

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It fits and it will protect… and she loves it!

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An outbreak of bags

Apparently one bag leads to another.  At least, it does for me! Part of this rash of bags was brought on by a bit of op shopping–I found a packet of venetian blind cord and having such suitable cord made my fingers itch.

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These are linen scraps gifted to me some time ago. The lining is recycled, eucalyptus printed raw silk.

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Maple leaf prints paired with scrap denim from making jeans.  One pair of jeans led to several others–but that was some years ago now and I lost my nerve!

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The lining is from the lining of a second hand jacket.

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Can I stop at three???

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Stitching up a storm

It began with a beloved tree banner for a tree that lost its long standing banner during the Royal Show.  Hopefully it went to another beloved tree.  The whim took me one night, so I found some calico gifted by a friend and interfaced it with a handkerchief that had passed the point of no return.

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Pretty soon, I had a banner ready to tie on. The silk thread was dyed a little while back, wrapped around a piece of E Scoparia bark from the very tree this banner is destined to adorn.  Before:

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After:

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And here’s the banner!

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Somehow the same night I machine stitched the banner together I decided to finally break out the glorious Japanese indigo dyed cotton thread my beloved brought home from a recent trip to Japan.  With pictures of the master dyer and his family, and of the workshop.  And some hand woven indigo dyed fabric.  Oh my!  It could take me years to decide what to do with it!

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Pretty soon I’d made this panel and started to have all kinds of ideas about what might happen to it next.

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But in the meantime I was keen to make a gift for a friend who had recently given me all the linen, canvas and cotton left from her days in art school.

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It’s lined with part of a raw silk suit a different friend found for me at an op shop.

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Done just in time to see her today!

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And… here is the banner in situ.

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The tree is in the process of shedding bark right now.  And just as beautiful as ever.

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Ribbons! And other exciting things…

Well, I went to the Royal Adelaide Show on the weekend to see what I could see.  So many people!  Such weird food!  So many rides!  So much award winning fleece!  I could only wish there was a way to buy one.  But the show is not set up to facilitate this.

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I discovered what happens when you approach a creature as curious as an alpaca quietly and rest your camera on the edge of the enclosure.

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A very warm and gentle whuffling….

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There were many glorious animals…

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There was a big exhibit called “Women of Empire” with Australian women from World War one represented by a banner about their lives and a period costume.  I was delighted to find Vida Goldstein (suffragist, pacifist, parliamentarian) represented.

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Not only is she campaigning against war and conscription here–look at that lapel!

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And her rather fine tie and button.

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Far from being a pacifist, next  I discovered a woman who wanted to be a soldier so badly that she impersonated one, more than once.  Maud Butler.  Here she is dressed as a boy.

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And here is something like what she would have worn, including the women’s shoes that gave her away.  She didn’t get her wish.

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Somehow this made it all the more funny when five minutes later I was hailed by some firefighters who were selling one of those fundraising calendars with lots of partially clad men in it.  ‘I know it wouldn’t be for you, sir…’!

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My quilt was hanging among many extremely splendiferous examples of the art.  Here is one of the major prize winners:

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Just look at that stitching!

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The cookery and craft sections were full of all kinds of outrageous… I always find the egg artistry section a thing of amazement.  Here are the tea cosies!  I had a lovely chat with an award winning knitter in the over 80 category who happened to be wandering about knitting a sock and admiring the view.  One of my species, I thought. I showed her my sock too.

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Of course, there were also a lot of examples of elegance.  Here is one of the winning entries in the apiary categories:

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I had a lot of trouble capturing decent images of anything indoors and behind glass, but I had a very fine time tracking down the entries of my friends and guildmates.

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In the foreground, the glorious spinning perfection entry of one of my friends, and in the background, mine.  And below, here’s the newspaper yarn, in the ‘best in show’ cabinet!

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For the love of simple embroidery

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This is the last in my series of three little bags rendered much more lovely through embroidery (and indigo).

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I have been really surprised to find that I can embroider on the bus (and of course, at the bus stop).  Admittedly, there is nothing complex about my embroidery!

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Also, it is easier than I thought to travel with simple embroidery, once you decide that is what you want to do. I have been tucking a reel of thread or two into the bag along with an old dental floss sample (for the cutter), digging my needle into the work, and wrapping the whole lot around the needle.  Then into bag or pocket and we are away.

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It has slowed down the public transport sock knitting somewhat.  But I am back to the regularly scheduled public transport socks now!

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I ended up virtually covering this bag in stitches dyed with indigo, indigofera australis, plum pine, eucalyptus, osage orange and random other local plant experiments.  I realise this is super simple embroidery… but for most of my life I would not have considered doing it, and nor would I have thought it possible I would enjoy it.  I do love the plant dyed threads.  I have enjoyed turning this lowly calico bag from a container for soap nuts into something worth looking at twice.  But I think I have to credit India Flint, Roz Hawker, Jude Hill and Isobel McGarry with persuading me that hand stitching is pleasurable and worthwhile.  Not that they were trying to do this…  But sometimes people rub off on one another, in a good way, even at considerable distance!

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On the delights and satisfactions of mending

I like mending.  I find it satisfying to have the skills to be able to render something useable when it is in danger of becoming unusable.  I like being able to give something lovely, or simply beloved, a long life rather than accepting that it will have a short one.

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I learned to use a sewing machine primarily in order to be able to mend things, jeans especially, and I am still doing this by machine as well as by hand.

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I do think it is a privilege to be able to take pleasure in mending.  I have choices about whether to mend or darn.  I can afford to buy new things rather than mend them, and this is a privilege that has not been available to most of humanity for most of history.  It’s privilege most people don’t have now.

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I have noticed that I mend sometimes because the thought of shopping for another something is very unappealing.  I love the idea of shopping for books, but clothing, not so much.  If I like a garment, I like to keep using it.  This is my favourite [black] turtleneck for work.  It sprung a couple of small holes this winter and I have stitched patches on the inside of the arm and the front to prolong its life of keeping me warm and unremarkable in work contexts.

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I hope it might make its way through more winters as a result of this patch and the one below.  These patches were so successful I also mended another skivvy that I like much less and that has descended into gardening and being an under layer.  I don’t even like it much.  But it’s warm and serviceable and somehow that was enough.

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Occasionally I branch out. I restitched a spot on my shoes that was coming undone and threatening the structure of the back of the shoe this winter because I couldn’t see my way to getting it to a shoe repairer now the one nearby has closed down, and I thought I should be able to do it myself.

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We use wheat bags in place of hot water bottles, and they sprang leaks, shedding a few grains of wheat here and there, this winter.  I mended them using a stitch I learned as a girl guide, for mending tents–and then mended a new leak and another one.  That sense of history and skills passed on is part of what I enjoy in mending. Years ago, I decided to be one of the keepers of darning for future generations, and I have taught a lot of people how to darn since my mother taught me.  But in the end, I recovered the wheat bags to see if I could, and of course, I could.  Instead of corduroy I now have a wonderful print on hemp left over from having our chairs re-upholstered and an eco print on pre-loved linen.

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I enjoyed being able to extend the life of these jeans for my beloved, even though I could see it would be temporary–and not a very long temporary at that.  I have tended to the favourite clothes of many of my friends and some of my relatives over time.

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I have been having a thought experiment about what it would mean if I never bought a piece of new clothing ever again.  Some of the mending recently has been driven by this thought experiment lurking in the back of my mind this very dry winter.  In previous times when I asked myself if I could never buy a piece of new clothing again, I was often thinking of it as a challenge to my skills as a maker, and as a way of contributing less to the exploitation of people who make clothes under awful conditions in parts of the world with little protection for workers’ health or industrial rights.

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More and more, I am thinking of it as a response to the need to consume less in order to reduce my carbon footprint in the face of climate change.  When I think of Naomi Klein’s book This Changes Everything: Capitalism vs the Climate, I find myself thinking about the idea that we could keep climate change to a degree which might be consistent with a liveable future for the planet if we returned to the degree of consumption of the 1970s and if everyone was part of the effort.  She points to the mobilisations that supported the war effort (here in Australia, we hear and see most about the mobilisation here and in England) as an example of a time in which the entire society was organised with a relatively common goal and a sense that everyone was part of it and that any privation on the home front should be shared in a relatively just way.  Let us concede before going further, as I am sure Naomi Klein would, that here is nothing just about war and no way of justly sharing the many forms of suffering it creates.  A just sharing of the costs of responding to climate change is utterly crucial–and unlikely to happen without a huge movement of people from everywhere demanding exactly this.

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My mending and darning can’t make the world just and it can’t stop climate change.  But it is a point of meditation about how resources might move from me to other people or vice versa.  It is one of many things I might do that might make a difference, however small.  I intend to keep thinking about it and seeing what difference it makes.  I am already imagining how I might plan ahead enough to avoid suddenly deciding I have to buy something I really could make.  I already notice that I wear different things if I think I might never buy a new pair of jeans again.  And I am asking myself, often, and not only in relation to clothing, do I really need to buy that?  Because–there are a lot of people on the planet who need the resources represented by that purchase more than I do.  And the planet needs a whole lot less consumption going on, and especially by people like me–from the overdeveloped world.  So let’s see how this thought experiment comes along!

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