Tag Archives: wool

Treppenviertel

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It all began some time ago with wool/silk yarn and some madder dyeing.  There was madder root of antiquity.  I soaked it overnight first.  And tried to follow Jenny Dean’s wisdom.

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It all looked good to me.  Eventually I added wool to the vat to exhaust the dye, and got apricot shades on the wool.

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The yarn came out rather nicely.  So then I was looking for a pattern that might be suitable.  Somehow I slipped a gear and thought I might not just knit the sock that lives in my head.

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I cast on, on the bus to work one morning.

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Here we are preparing for class and waiting for lunch.

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Here we are at a break in a conference, admiring kangaroo paw.  I knit the heel three times at the conference because apparently I can’t be trusted to read a pattern.  The first time I knit as the pattern required, and then had a failure of understanding, so I ripped back, re-knit and then realised what I had missed on the first pass, and followed the pattern again!  That slowed me down.  I am prepared to knit in a conference but not to rip back and pick up live stitches!  I had to do that in breaks.

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Here I am on my way to a formal occasion, wearing a frock and knitting at the tram stop.  I thought perhaps the rare occasion of me in public in a frock should be recorded for posterity.

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Nearing the final moment… just prior to the grafting of toes…

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And here is a less than wonderful mood lighting photo of the socks on their rather wonderful intended recipient, at last!  The pattern  is Treppenviertel by Nicola Susen.  It is a rather lovely ode to the ‘stairs district’ of Hamburg.  As promised, I managed to pick up the pattern after a while, rather than needing to count every row–and this is just what a public transport knitter needs!  Three cheers for frieds, socks, and public transport.

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Filed under Knitting, Natural dyeing

Dyes of antiquity: Opal Cochineal

Some time back, I started a series of posts using dyes that have been gifted to my Guild–or perhaps just abandoned there!  Among the haul of amazing dyes of unknown provenance and considerable age was quite an amount of cochineal.  It had so many forms of packaging and so many forms that I brought together all those with similar labels and packages… and this left small quantities of ‘opal cochineal’ (12 g) and ‘ruby cochineal’ (36 g).  I was absolutely unable to figure out whether these were marketing terms or actual descriptions of the dye qualities of the dried bugs themselves, and finally I decided to find out.

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Step 1: weighing the opal cochineal, consulting the dye books (I went with Rebecca Burgess on this one), and stitching my dried insects into a pouch.  I abhor stockings, so they only come my way from other people’s discards.  I found an antique nylon curtain in the stash and stitched up a double layer bag for the dyestuff to be sewn into.

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Into the dye bath!  When the mount of colour released almost immediately is so stunning, it’s easy to understand why this dye was so sought after (and of course, still is in some quarters).  I added small quantities of silk embroidery thread at different stages in the process, along side several batches of fleece from ‘Viola’, a silvery-grey English Leicester Cross. The thread looks just great.

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I love the colour from the first bath best, but tried to exhaust the dye, with three batches of fibre.  Total dyed weight: a whopping 72g.  Is it ‘opal’ in some special way??? Let me know if you have a view.

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Here is my little nylon sachet after its many steepings and soakings, heatings and coolings.  I had a chat with a friend at the Guild and she’s been cochineal dyeing too.  Maybe all our exhausted insects will go into one final exhaust bath.

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Filed under Natural dyeing

Can I spin a rainbow?

I have already had a vote of confidence in my abilities.  A brother and sister (plus Mum) team of my precious friends made me a little book of knitting. Their confidence in my capacities is exceedingly high!   If I can knit a rainbow, maybe I am good for dyeing and spinning one first?

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And I have been dyeing and dyeing.  Viola the sheep wouldn’t know herself.  Eucalypt with tamarind, rhubarb leaf, citrus peel brews (thanks to India Flint for genius on this front).  Madder exhaust.  Coreopsis, osage orange, indigo overdyes, woad, madder with iron, alkanet.  It has been a fun few months with the dye pots.

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And now… I am spinning up a rainbow and loving it.  Watch this space!

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Filed under Natural dyeing, Spinning

Ribbons! And other exciting things…

Well, I went to the Royal Adelaide Show on the weekend to see what I could see.  So many people!  Such weird food!  So many rides!  So much award winning fleece!  I could only wish there was a way to buy one.  But the show is not set up to facilitate this.

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I discovered what happens when you approach a creature as curious as an alpaca quietly and rest your camera on the edge of the enclosure.

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A very warm and gentle whuffling….

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There were many glorious animals…

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There was a big exhibit called “Women of Empire” with Australian women from World War one represented by a banner about their lives and a period costume.  I was delighted to find Vida Goldstein (suffragist, pacifist, parliamentarian) represented.

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Not only is she campaigning against war and conscription here–look at that lapel!

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And her rather fine tie and button.

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Far from being a pacifist, next  I discovered a woman who wanted to be a soldier so badly that she impersonated one, more than once.  Maud Butler.  Here she is dressed as a boy.

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And here is something like what she would have worn, including the women’s shoes that gave her away.  She didn’t get her wish.

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Somehow this made it all the more funny when five minutes later I was hailed by some firefighters who were selling one of those fundraising calendars with lots of partially clad men in it.  ‘I know it wouldn’t be for you, sir…’!

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My quilt was hanging among many extremely splendiferous examples of the art.  Here is one of the major prize winners:

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Just look at that stitching!

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The cookery and craft sections were full of all kinds of outrageous… I always find the egg artistry section a thing of amazement.  Here are the tea cosies!  I had a lovely chat with an award winning knitter in the over 80 category who happened to be wandering about knitting a sock and admiring the view.  One of my species, I thought. I showed her my sock too.

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Of course, there were also a lot of examples of elegance.  Here is one of the winning entries in the apiary categories:

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I had a lot of trouble capturing decent images of anything indoors and behind glass, but I had a very fine time tracking down the entries of my friends and guildmates.

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In the foreground, the glorious spinning perfection entry of one of my friends, and in the background, mine.  And below, here’s the newspaper yarn, in the ‘best in show’ cabinet!

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Filed under Leaf prints, Sewing, Spinning

On the delights and satisfactions of mending

I like mending.  I find it satisfying to have the skills to be able to render something useable when it is in danger of becoming unusable.  I like being able to give something lovely, or simply beloved, a long life rather than accepting that it will have a short one.

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I learned to use a sewing machine primarily in order to be able to mend things, jeans especially, and I am still doing this by machine as well as by hand.

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I do think it is a privilege to be able to take pleasure in mending.  I have choices about whether to mend or darn.  I can afford to buy new things rather than mend them, and this is a privilege that has not been available to most of humanity for most of history.  It’s privilege most people don’t have now.

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I have noticed that I mend sometimes because the thought of shopping for another something is very unappealing.  I love the idea of shopping for books, but clothing, not so much.  If I like a garment, I like to keep using it.  This is my favourite [black] turtleneck for work.  It sprung a couple of small holes this winter and I have stitched patches on the inside of the arm and the front to prolong its life of keeping me warm and unremarkable in work contexts.

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I hope it might make its way through more winters as a result of this patch and the one below.  These patches were so successful I also mended another skivvy that I like much less and that has descended into gardening and being an under layer.  I don’t even like it much.  But it’s warm and serviceable and somehow that was enough.

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Occasionally I branch out. I restitched a spot on my shoes that was coming undone and threatening the structure of the back of the shoe this winter because I couldn’t see my way to getting it to a shoe repairer now the one nearby has closed down, and I thought I should be able to do it myself.

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We use wheat bags in place of hot water bottles, and they sprang leaks, shedding a few grains of wheat here and there, this winter.  I mended them using a stitch I learned as a girl guide, for mending tents–and then mended a new leak and another one.  That sense of history and skills passed on is part of what I enjoy in mending. Years ago, I decided to be one of the keepers of darning for future generations, and I have taught a lot of people how to darn since my mother taught me.  But in the end, I recovered the wheat bags to see if I could, and of course, I could.  Instead of corduroy I now have a wonderful print on hemp left over from having our chairs re-upholstered and an eco print on pre-loved linen.

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I enjoyed being able to extend the life of these jeans for my beloved, even though I could see it would be temporary–and not a very long temporary at that.  I have tended to the favourite clothes of many of my friends and some of my relatives over time.

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I have been having a thought experiment about what it would mean if I never bought a piece of new clothing ever again.  Some of the mending recently has been driven by this thought experiment lurking in the back of my mind this very dry winter.  In previous times when I asked myself if I could never buy a piece of new clothing again, I was often thinking of it as a challenge to my skills as a maker, and as a way of contributing less to the exploitation of people who make clothes under awful conditions in parts of the world with little protection for workers’ health or industrial rights.

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More and more, I am thinking of it as a response to the need to consume less in order to reduce my carbon footprint in the face of climate change.  When I think of Naomi Klein’s book This Changes Everything: Capitalism vs the Climate, I find myself thinking about the idea that we could keep climate change to a degree which might be consistent with a liveable future for the planet if we returned to the degree of consumption of the 1970s and if everyone was part of the effort.  She points to the mobilisations that supported the war effort (here in Australia, we hear and see most about the mobilisation here and in England) as an example of a time in which the entire society was organised with a relatively common goal and a sense that everyone was part of it and that any privation on the home front should be shared in a relatively just way.  Let us concede before going further, as I am sure Naomi Klein would, that here is nothing just about war and no way of justly sharing the many forms of suffering it creates.  A just sharing of the costs of responding to climate change is utterly crucial–and unlikely to happen without a huge movement of people from everywhere demanding exactly this.

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My mending and darning can’t make the world just and it can’t stop climate change.  But it is a point of meditation about how resources might move from me to other people or vice versa.  It is one of many things I might do that might make a difference, however small.  I intend to keep thinking about it and seeing what difference it makes.  I am already imagining how I might plan ahead enough to avoid suddenly deciding I have to buy something I really could make.  I already notice that I wear different things if I think I might never buy a new pair of jeans again.  And I am asking myself, often, and not only in relation to clothing, do I really need to buy that?  Because–there are a lot of people on the planet who need the resources represented by that purchase more than I do.  And the planet needs a whole lot less consumption going on, and especially by people like me–from the overdeveloped world.  So let’s see how this thought experiment comes along!

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Filed under Sewing

Birthday gift

It came to my notice that a niece who was shortly to visit us also has a birthday approaching. I put on the dye pot.

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I went out to visit a favourite tree.

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I had ordered the scarves with this kind of occurrence in mind, so I pulled one out and pulled out the new silk thread as well.

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In they went (and so did the stems that were left from the leaves I’d used)!

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The transformation is always amazing in the dye pot.

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But the contents are even better fun!

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Shown here wet from the dye bath…

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And here hung out to dry.

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Yes, she does like it….! And we took her out on a walk to see the tree that contributed its glory to her gift.

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20 Comments

Filed under Dye Plants, Eucalypts, Leaf prints, Natural dyeing, Neighbourhood pleasures

Blankets Re-imagined

My dear friends were the ones paying close enough attention to realise that the launch of Blankets Re-Imagined was imminent. They also were the ones with the genius and generosity to organise a wonderful supper that must have made us the envy of most of the people who were there!  So last Friday on a chilly night after a long working week we ventured out into the hills to Lobethal. The exhibition (of over 40 artists and more than 100 works) was held in the shell of the once great Onkaparinga Woollen Mills, still a very impressive building.

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This is, indeed, a building in which many blankets were made and of course, there were many blankets on display.

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Some were being worn.  Others adorned walls and had been turned into all manner of art works, ranging from political commentary through multiple forms and techniques and into sheer whimsy. It was night, and indoors.  I can’t say the lighting was ideal for photography, even though I now have more understanding of white balance, due to another friend’s kindness and expertise.  So please bear with me on colour variations…

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India Flint’s work is substantial in every way: created from segments of eco dyed blanket and nailed to a massive piece of kauri with nails that would make my father proud.  (He is the kind of man who would never use one nail if four nails could do the job.)  The colours and leafy shapes are glorious, and the trails of eucalyptus dyed stitching form an understated uniting tracery that seems to me to be a signature of India’s.

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The variety of colour and leaf form was just lovely.

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There were a whole series of blankets from this mill in awesomely seventies oranges (lime greens and purples too).  I believe we have one in our very own home.  I love the way this section references that orange but does something that is absolutely not tartanesque with it.

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Here I am blending in to the artwork perfectly well in an India Flint original!  This effect gave rise to numerous comments from passersby as well as friends, and there were a few strangers who needed to feel my sleeve.  I completely understand the urge!

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It was a delight to see Isobel McGarry and admire her contribution even though I failed completely to capture its colours.  Her work, ‘Oppenheimer’s Suns’ carries her trademark close stitching and conveys her grieving for all war has cost humanity and the environment. The launch happened close to Hiroshima Day and Nagasaki Day–and therefore spoke to things that had been on my mind a good deal.

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But as always her work also conveys her longing for peace and healing…

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This wonderful work by Sandy Elverd was on display…   she has long used blanketing as a medium to fabulous effect.

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Indigo Eli contributed a piece commenting on the Australian government’s recent Border Protection Act and its silencing of criticism of the treatment of asylum seekers.

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There was plenty of whimsy… these by Victoria Pitcher.

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This echidna by Lindi Harris and Lisa Friebe.

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Then there was the blanket cubby.

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Unfortunately I did not record the name of the artist.

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There were also reminders of the machinery on which so much wool was processed into fabric.

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And there was the building itself to admire.

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Adorned for the event rather wonderfully.

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Such a wonderful evening. So much to think about and wonder over, admire and revel in. And such glorious company to do it in.

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Filed under Leaf prints, Natural dyeing, Sewing

Another bundle of beautification

I had another undergarment that could use improvement… here it is before.

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I liked the back better.

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E Scoparia got the job again.

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It looked so good afterward…

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While I was at the dye table I realised that the woad bundle I had left tied was still there… I unwrapped and this one had prints. Green leaves and contrasting stems.

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And here are the ‘after’ pictures… clearly the light was not as good as I thought at the time!  The front:

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And… the back.

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I’m not sure.  I might go again!

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Filed under Leaf prints, Natural dyeing

Mending

There has been less mending this winter because after the attack of the m*ths last year, stringent measures have been taken round here. M*th proof storage and pheromone sticky traps, and a cleaning programme that gets into the corners.  This is the first mend I’ve needed to make to a woollen undergarment this season, and this garment is years old and has seen a lot of wear.  It’s underwear, so I decided to trial an external patch, as well as an internal patch.  The internal patch was almost invisible from the outside. Here’s the outside view of the external patch:

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Silkymerino eucalyptus-print patch sewn on with eucalyptus dyed silk thread… and here is the inside–interior patch on the left and exterior patch on the right.

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I also have a favourite T shirt.  It’s a fine bamboo shirt with a design by the wonderful Nikki McClure. It has worn some small holes in front.  In the region of the belly button (or perhaps the belt buckle), to be exact!  Hence the trial of internal and external patching.  Conclusion: a feature external patch in this location… will not be flattering when the garment is on, though it could look great if it wasn’t actually on me!  The patched place is at the centre bottom of this image, looking slightly puckered.

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Here is the inside view–silkymerino stitched with madder dyed cotton/silk thread.  The little holes show red and so do all the tiny stitches… so there is a little speckled area on the front of the shirt.  In the spirit of the visible mending programme, this patch is visible… but not too visible!  And I personally will enjoy the internal view.

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And… some rough and ready patching on my gardening jeans has also been needed.  The second knee finally gave way.

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And when I went to mend the knee, one of the back pockets pulled away from the seat.  Better than this happening while I’m out on the street!  I decided against anything fancy because there isn’t much left in the way of strong fabric in these jeans any more–the hem has worn right through, the belt loops are pulling away from the waistband, and the next pair in the queue are more than ready for a permanent move to gardening wear.  In the meantime, some reinforcement on the inside and some machine darning over the most threadbare section will keep them going awhile longer…

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Filed under Sewing

Whimsically cabled socks

Socks take a little while to knit.  Maybe 20 hours or more of knitting for a pair in 4 ply (fingering).  To be honest, I’m not sure.  Needless to say, I don’t sit down and time myself knitting them. I don’t knit them on a whim, they way I do hats, which just sit about waiting for the right head to come by.  I want them to be well received and they need to fit in more senses than one.  So, a little while back, there was a tracing of the foot.  Then I checked the preferences of the intended recipient, ordered BFL/silk sock yarn, and dyed it with eucalyptus.  To get a good strong colour, I dyed the 100g of yarn in four dye baths.  These socks have travelled, because in those hours of knitting, socks-in-the-making are my constant companions, which is one of the lovely things about them.  I enjoy the knitting, and I enjoy holding the intended recipient in my mind for the time the knitting takes. Here is the first sock, and that week’s reading for theory reading group.

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They came with me to hospital to visit a complicated relative who had a near death experience, twice (she is still alive).  They may not have brought her comfort but they brought me comfort.  The second hospital visit was so dim I did something quite inappropriate and had to rip back a bit.  They have been to some high level meetings.  They came to a very informal meeting with a workmate which was interrupted by another knitter (otherwise, a total stranger) who was beside herself to see socks being knit right there in front of her eyes.  My workmate is a generous man who didn’t flinch!  I have walked along knitting them from my bag.  They have been fondled lovingly by the odd stranger.  I was getting to the heel of the second sock when I went to Sydney.  Here we are in a cafe reading political theory (with relish).

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In front of a sculpture at a university in Sydney where I attended part of a conference where my beloved did a wonderful job of presenting.

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In a hotel room with a banksia cone.

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Waiting for a bus outside central railway station in Sydney.  Ask not what the other people waiting thought of my photographing a sock.  There is a lot going on outside Central at night and no one blinked.

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Almost done at Coogee Beach.

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Maybe you wanted to see Coogee beach?  Glorious!

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Toe grafted and ends darned in, in the Sydney airport.

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Here they are in better light after a nice steam press!

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I hope that they will be snug and long lasting… (non knitters: that is a reinforcing heel stitch you see there).

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And I hope that the whimsy of these cables will tickle India‘s fancy the way it tickles mine!  This design was suggested by one of my nearest and dearest, who first told me about India’s work years before I first saw it.  He was the first to have a whimsically cabled pair of socks made by me… and now there are two such pairs!  It is an absolute delight to be able to turn the generosity back toward someone who has been so exceedingly generous to me.

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4 Comments

Filed under Eucalypts, Knitting, Natural dyeing